Question about Maytag Legacy Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Maytag SAV 205 DAWW

The washer stops for no reason, 20 to 30 min later it will start. Rotaed the timer to other positions, As soon as I went to get my meter to start trouble shooting the washer started. This has hapen 2 times so far. Did ohm out the door saftey switch seems fine. What other saftey are there that would hold it out. Or I am I looking at a possible intermitted timer select switch?


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  • no free time Jan 18, 2008

    Will take the shop vac to it on Sat. Did not think about the internal OL. Would not the timmer keep on running? Or are they some how electrical /mechanical interlocked?

  • no free time Jan 19, 2008

    Thanks, will work on it Sat. Will put the amp probe on it and compare the reading to the name plate. At what cycle is the largest draw on the motor? I was looking for a wiring diagram in the top pannel. Did not find one. I am curious on how they interlock the motor running to the mechanical timmer motor. The timer motor must then be in series with the motor over load ,

  • no free time Jan 19, 2008


    Removed the bottom cover to expose the motor compartment, Was very clean, no lint build up any where. Just a little belt dust that looked normal for a 3 plus year old unit. The motor amp rating is 8.7 / 7.4 (two speed motor) I measured a constant 6.2 amps , lower on spin. The motor over load is very visible , I did disconect the wire on the overload and it does duplicate the same problem. Possible faulty over load. Question: can the over load be replaced? The motor looks like a pain too remove or worst case run it with out the over load, But I do not like to operate electrical eqipment with out protection.

  • no free time Jan 19, 2008

    I do agree the overload could be faulty. Looking on line, there is not a part # for a motor overload, they sell a new motor only, do you know if that is sold by it's self?

    Thanks for your help also!



2 Answers

Washer stopped and I was able to get my meter this time. Found no voltage to the Motor Overload and door saftey switch. Ohm them out, closed. There was line voltage going to the the timer(120 vac) I then checked to see if there was voltage at any of the other pins. No voltage. Taped the timer a couple of times and you could then hear the timer motor start running, Then washer finished it cycle. I bought a new timer and it has been find. The tough ones are the ones when they are running when you get the meter.

Posted on Jan 24, 2008


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  • 38 Answers

Look for a self resetting overload on the motor. many motors have an overload that pops a little red button out and waits for a push to reset. Other overloads will reset automatically because they are hard to access for pushing a button. If there is an overload resulting in a shutdown you will have to determine the cause. I have found motors in washers completely ingulfed in dust and lint (from the adjacent dryer) and not being allowed to dissipate heat. Sometimes a thorough cleaning is all that it needs to run cool and efficiently.

Posted on Jan 18, 2008

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  • Anonymous Jan 19, 2008

    It would make sense for the timer to be after an automatic overload so that the cycle can continue where it left off. If it continued to run it would finish and you would have a tub full of water or unwashed clothes. If you look at incoming power before it seperates from the motor to the controller you should find the culprit. Does your meter measure AC amps? You might want to get a fix on the current draw of the motor to see if it is in fact overloading. Let me know how it goes.

  • Anonymous Jan 19, 2008

    Almost certainly the largest draw will be during the wash cycle when the motor has to run the agitator. measure over time and see if amperage increases. I am not 100% convinced but do suspect a heating problem with the motor. The current should follow a curve and get worse as it gets hot. Throw a thermocouple, O-scope and chart recorder on it too then we will really know, kidding unless you actually have the equipment.

  • Anonymous Jan 19, 2008

    You could put an inline fuse just to see if it ever doe overload. Go 125% of Full load amps round up to next standard fuse size if it pops your overload was doing ist job. If it does not pop replace the overload. You might also consider running a cycle without but if you do that make sure it is on a 15A breaker not a twenty and keep a close eye on it. If you have a meter with a temp probe put it on the motor and watch that also..I suspect you just have a nusiance overload.



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