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There are no user serviceable parts but if you grandma's diamond is inside, try to find snap-together locations between plastic parts and remove any screws you can at the back end. Most irons have screws only at the stand/rear end and can then access cord connections, etc. Once you get started it will be easier to see what the next step is.
We have a Euro Pro GI472, which kept going off and on, and the problem seemed to be an intermittent connection in the power circuit. If we "fiddled" with the cord, the power light would go off and on. To get the back off, I removed the two screws below the rubber feet, near the identification tag. Then I had to pop the red plastic light lens off the top of the iron. The lens is held by two plastic "claws" one at the top and at the bottom of the lens. Once the lens is out, there is a small Phillips-head screw visible between two light sources. I removed the screw, and that freed the cover, and made it possible to access the wiring. Testing continuity from the wall plug to the two wires inside the iron, and flexing the cord, quickly led to a spot in the cord that was slightly kinked, and that was the location of the fault. Both wires under the insulation were broken. In fact there were small balls of melted copper near the breaks. Then it is a matter of making sure you know which wire of the power cord goes to which spot in the iron (a photo or a sketch will save mistakes when reassembling) cutting out the faulty wire, getting a suitable crimp connector and a wire nut and rewiring the iron.
1) Remove the (2 or more) screws holding the plastic bottom plate (that the iron stands up on).
The screws are likely to be #20 Torx "Security" screws -- for which you will need a special bit for your nut/screwdriver. A kit of various sizes of Torx security bits will cost you about $10.
2) Remove the plastic cord-holder assembly from the iron.
2a) If the cord-holder is held in place with screws (you are in luck!), simply unscrew them. If you see no screws, then it is being held in place by several (probably 4) plastic tabs that you must simultaneously release. This makes the job much more fiddly. Use a small/medium blade screwdriver to carefully bend and hold each of the plastic tabs out of the way of the latches. You'll need one screwdriver per tab/latch! Take care not to break the tabs...
2b) Carefully wiggle/pull/work the cord-holder assembly out of the iron taking care not to bend the pins of the integral plug (inside the iron) that are seated in the cord-holder socket. Basically, with the iron resting on its metal surface, pull/pry/wiggle the cord-holder straight upward until the cord-holder (socket) pulls free of the (3 or more) stiff wires that function as a "plug".
3) Note that there are 2 crimp-on connectors attaching the 2 wires of the cord to the rest of the wires in the iron. Take a photo of the wires and jot down notes of which wires are connected together. NOTE: One of the cord wires is "neutral" and is attached to the wider spade at the plug end of the cord. Typically the "neutral" wire is marked with a white stripe or ridge down length of the cord. Don't mix up the "neutral" wire and the "hot" wire when you re-connect them in a later step!
4) Cut off the crimp-on connectors and separate all the wires.
5) Remove the cord from the system of zig-zagging "strain-relief" notches that hold the cord securely in place. You may have to remove a small plastic clip first.
6) Cut off 6 inches of the cord. (Or supply a new cord, if the cord has been shortened too much in previous repairs.) This eliminates the broken section wire within the cord. You may use an ohm meter to verify that both wires have a low resistance again (less than 1 ohm).
7) Route the cord back into the "strain-relief" notches in the cord-holder. Don't forget the plastic clip (if there was one)...
8) Strip all wires, exposing about 3/8" of copper on each.
9) Referring to your notes and photo, re-connect all wires using proper-sized plastic wire-nuts for secure connections.
10) Re-attach the cord-holder to the iron body. Make sure you line up the stiff wire pins with the cord-holder socket. Push the cord-holder into place and secure it (via screws or snap-in-place plastic tabs).
11) Replace the plastic cover, taking care to position the wire-nuts and wires to allow it to drop into place without forcing it. Secure the cover with screws.
Terminal block is fastened/secured with body by a screw but before removing the terminal block from body, make sure that the iron element terminals are also disconnected. this can be done by opening the screws on other side of the cord terminals-3 in number as also in the cord. Otherwise the terminal block would not come out fully.In any case you normally do not need to remove the terminal block.
It should be an access plate fasten by a couple of screws right below the power cord, remove them and fix the cord's terminals/contacts or the cord itself.
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On the end of the iron there are 2 screws - remove them; on the bottom of the end there is a small slot - put a small screw driver in the slot and pull on the end; you will find the wire that goes into the iron - get a replacement from an iron shop and you are good to go!
In replacing the cord, you have to remove the screw that holds the back cover and unscrew the damaged cord from the heater terminal. Insert the new cord on the rubber insulator and screw it to the heater terminal.
Remove the back plate where the cord attaches to the iron... there are 4 screws visible and another 2 screws hidden under the two rubber feet...These are joined together by a rubber strip and can be removed by prying up and out with a small pry.... once the cover is removed you will see where to take the old cord off and replace it with a new one..
It is probably a loose screw (if you shake the iron, you may hear it rattle).. The iron is most likely good, just needs a 5 minute repair.
If you want to do it, or find someone to do it:
1. UNPLUG the iron.
2. remove the 4 screws from the back end of the iron.
3. Open the back plastic plate.
4. There will be a wire with a loose screw; tighten it.
5. There may be a broken wire near the screw; if so, remove the eyelet that is on the screw. put the screw back on and wrap the broken wire end onto the screw and tighten.
6. Replace the back plate.
7. Plug back in and use for a few more years.
The back comes straight off. All you need to do is take a small screwdriver and pry against the bottom metal piece, then it should start to come off. Make sure you take it off carefully so as not to break anything. Pry evenly all around the plastic end cap until it comes off.
After that, you can replace the cord. It's connected via two crimp caps. Easy to replace. Just make SURE you purchase a cord rated for an iron.. DO NOT clip the plug end from an extension cord or similar and use it. The iron uses 16 gauge HEATER CORD. Easy to find, but you could melt your power cord and possibly cause a fire if you don't replace it with the correct type.