Question about Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier
Can any one help? My fan won't turn on. I am thinking it is the fan motor & not the circuit board because I hear a clicking response when touching the fan button going from high to low & low back to high. Does that eliminate the circuit board & tells me the motor is burned before I order.
Easy to take apart so instead of paying a high cost I believe I can reassemble myself. I can't believe all the problems with these units & have contacted Sears & told them to look on their web site & to monitor reviews for this product. Almost all reviews are bad & out of scale 1.....5 it gets a low score.
Can anyone help me wiht the fan problem. I am wondering about cost of shipping & should I order anything else while I am it??? Thanks!
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.
The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.
A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
My Dehumidifier is a LG brand. It is a big bother to take apart. I plan to replace the fuse with a switch (thermostat). The switch will reset itself when it cools. That way the motor will start up again when it cools. I will not have to take it apart again after installing the switch.
I selected a switch (thermostat) from DigiKey and another from Mouser. The Mouser part cost less so I went with that one.
Cantherm F1113025ACFA06E (130C Normally Closed)
Stancor STO-250 (118C to 124C Normally Closed)
I have not installed the switch yet. Hopefully I will follow-up here after I do. Please do not depend my doing that.
PS My LG dehumidifier has given me much grief. First the Fan hub cracked. I re-enfored the hub. Second, my repair failed. I glued the fan to the motor. Third, this thermal fuse blew. Add to that how dificult it is to get to the fan motor. When I replace this de-humidifer it will be with a NON-LG brand dehumidifier.
Good luck to you, Mitch
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
You can purchase a new fan motor. But the same problem will probably happen again. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a yellow thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the red wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working (in effect it was an open circuit). Once replaced the motor worked fine. this is the second time in about two years that this problem happened. The first time Sears fixed for about $100 and three weeks. This time I saved the money and did the repair myself. I would guess you could buy a new thermistor for about $5.00 from a parts house like digiKey or National Electronics. You will need to know how to use a soldering iron to repair this.
Posted on Jul 08, 2008
The Fan Motor has a tendency to burn out. Best solution is to replace it with part number 4681A20040K also know as 4681A20040R about $28.49 plus s/h and tax.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
Just wondering if you anyone knows what thermistor to get to replace this. Pulled the motor apart and found one labeled: 12a 130C <RS>E JET 123 UMI (white ceramic (resistor style) w/ orange writing) I assume this is the thermistor but, am not able to find this online. I bypassed it and sure enough, the motor is running again but, I imagine something's going to burn out this way. So, can anybody identify this any better and/or point to where to find it?
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
I have a Friedrich dehumidifier (D65C) with a dead fan motor. The true culprit is the small thermistor between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape. I heard about this bad (open) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I am still trying to find out where can I buy this little thermistor. Radio Shack ??
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
DOES A DEHUMIDIFIER FAN RUN ALL THE TIME, & THE COMPRESSER KICK IN & OUT AS NEEDED ?
Posted on Nov 05, 2014
The thermal fuse being talked about in this thread indeed is often the cause of the fan motor not working. Those who call it a "thermistor" are mistaken, it is actually a thermal fuse. A thermistor changes resistance with temperature changes. A thermal fuse blows once the set temp is reached. When that happens the circuit is open. I replaced the blown thermal fuse with one from Radio Shack, it is a higher ampacity at 10 amps rather than the 2 amp original. RS Part # 270-1320, $1.69. Yes, this will allow the motor to run hotter, but I installed an 8 amp 110 v. fuse inline on the power supply cord, which should provide safety.
Posted on Jul 01, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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