After removing the 2 screws, you just need to give the front of the lid a slight bang with the palm of your hand and that will free it off. Don't be affraid of breaking anything, you do sometimes need to give it a good push.
The previous solutions would have been right had you been looking for the solution to the same problem of a different model of hotpoint washing machine, they no longer use that style of lid-attatchments.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Remove power to the unit.
Locate the console and remove two phillips head screws. Most
models have them in the front, bottom of the console. In some of the newer models they are located in the back, bottom of the console. Some washers require you to remove two end caps on the console to access the screws.
After you remove the two screws, slide the console slightly forward and then up. The console will then hinge to the back of the washer.
With the console now hinged back, locate the lid switch harness.
Disconnect the harness and check for resistance between the 2 grey wires (outside) on the lid switch connector connected to top of washer. With the lid down the circuit should read no resistance. If the circuit is open(infinite resistance) then the switch needs to be replaced. You can also use a insulated jumper on the lid switch harness to determine if its the switch.
To replace the lid switch you will now have to remove the cabinet. Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the two clips holding the back of the washer to the outer shell of the washer.
Disconnect the lid switch harness(If not still disconnected).
You can now pull the outer shell away from the washer. Do this by
grasping the outer shell (I open the lid and grab it there.) and tilt the shell forward (toward you) and out. The shell is now removed and you can see the tub. Be careful not to bend the outside walls of the shell when removing and setting aside. This will help greatly when reinstalling the shell. Remove the 2 screws attaching switch to cabinet. Remove the screw connecting the ground on the cabinet. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push tabs on lid switch connector block to remove. Finally remove the whole harness from the 2 remaining retainer clips under the cabinet. Install new lid switch harness assembly and reassemble washer.
remove top lid ( two hex head screws on side of lid, under plastic covers)
take out dispenser drawer. reveils 3 screws
remove screws and slid front panel to the right (reveils 2 scrwes left and right)*
remove bottom kick strip ( reveils 2 more screws)*
undo door seal retainer, and remove 2 screws holding on door lock.
now remove 4 screws holding on front panel.*
To remove the front of the dryer you must first take off the control panel It starts with 2 small screws (one each side ) just up and under the overhang on each side. Then take the two screws out of the white cover plate that is above the washer lid. The cover plate that is angled toward you. Once that cover plate is off you can remove 4 screws to remove the aluminum cover plate that hides the electrical connections. ( Which of course aren't live as you already unplugged or turned off the power to the unit). Once the aluminum cover is off you can see the dryer exhaust connection and some of the electrical connections. Remove the last two screws for the control panel ( which are now visible). Disconnect the electrical connections 2 or 3 as well as the safety override wire. (These are all plug type type connectors). Put the control panel aside. Now go to the top of the dryer and remove the 4 or 6 screws holding the lid on the dryer. Remove the lid. You now have access to the dryer drum (which is much lighter than you think and easy to remove (write ups elsewhere)). You can also remove and replace the heating element, the idler arm and the drive belts. (Hint:, before disconnecting the drive belts and idler arm draw them. They assemble backwards to the way your brain thinks after the fact). To get to the washer is completely different. You start by removing the 2 screws at the front of the washer at floor level. Once these are out you can remove the front of the washer by pushing the panel down to release it. ( about 1/2 inch). Once the panel is off you then remove a screw under the top of the washer at the front on each side. The lid can now be removed. From there you have access to the water inlet valve, the idler arm, the drum, the motor, the drain, etc etc .
Sounds like a lid switch problem most likely. When closing the lid, slowly lower it and listen/feel for a "click" when the lid is about 3 inches from being completely closed. If you don't, then you have a broken lid switch.
The model of washer you listed, TAWS800JQ, has two different possible lid switches and you get to them differently.
To get to the lid switch, you need to remove 2 screws that hold the control console in place. There is 1 on the left and 1 on the right of the console. They can either be on the front side and easy to see, or on the back side. Loosen those screws so that the console is free and you can flip it up and backwards out of your way.
One type of lid switch can be seen on the left side after you flip the control console up and back out of your way. There is just a little clip that holds it in place. The lid needs to be raised in order to remove the lid switch. Unplug the wiring harness and replace.
The other type, do this: Then use a flat blade screwdriver to remove the brass spring clips on the left and right side of the washer that hold the front/sides/top on. Unplug the lid switch in the middle of the washer top and then you can remove the wrap-around cabinet. The lid switch is under the top and is held in place by clips and 2 screws.
On the back of each END piece , there is a phillips head screw . Remove both screws and the console will slide foreward and tilt back . Remove the 2 clamps by prying out from the front of the clamps . Remove the lid switch connector and the whole cabinet will tilt foreward . Remove the 2 screws holding the switch and the plug for the switch wiring can be removed . Reassemble in reverse . BE SURE TO UNPLUG MACHINE FIRST .
its a matter of removing the front retaining wire and the inner one which holds it onto the drum, an easy enough job to get off, sometimes a pain to get the inner off and on depending whether it s the screw or clamp type , screw=easy. to get the clamp off use a screwdriver to wiggle the bent wire out of the ratchet grooves. to put back is done with long nose pliers, preferably bent nose ones.
Remove 2 screws that hold the console in place. Most are at the rear corners of the console. Pull console forward and up and tilt back.There are 2 brass clips holding the cabinet in place. then the cabinet can be removed by tilting forward and away from base. there is no reason to remove the lid.