Question about Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Model E372b Fisher & Pykel - Beeps with Fridge Door closed periodically-Higest shelves warm lower down freezes things

Model E372b Fisher & Pykel Active Smart Drive Frost Free Refriderator
I have a frost free smart drive refriderator by Fisher & Pykel it is approxamately 4 years old. If the door is left open after a few minutes it beeps to let you know. It is doing that now at least 3 times a day with the door closed. The temperature gauge light is flashing constantly. Even checking the settings set at normal for the fridge the light contues to flash. The feezer is okay but the food in the fridge is either warm or frozen. The highest shelves are warm, the lower shelves freeze the food including the lowest shelf on the fridge door where milk is stored. This is happening on a daily basis. I have to push the temp button inside the fridge to get it to stop beeping when it goes off on it's own. Look forward to your advice.

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  • bartolomeig Feb 06, 2008

    I have exactly the same problem. I wonder if you have got it sorted.
    Bart

  • suad Mar 04, 2008

    The temperature gauge light is flashing constantly. Even checking the settings set at normal for the fridge the light contues to flash. the fridge make the water ice like the freezer on the top shelf,and the light not always warking

  • Anonymous Mar 11, 2008

    Same Problem

  • Mickeydb Mar 22, 2008

    I have the model E422B with a similar problem. In my case the top compartment indicator is continually flashing and beeping. If someone has had this problem or has the error code list, I will diagnose the problem, repair it and repost the answer here.Thanks.

  • skins23 Apr 29, 2008

    I also have this problem. E422B. I got onto F&P service team who talked me through a sequence pushing the buttons at the back of the fridge. He then indicated it was a fan wasnt drawing enough current. IE meaning it isnt working or a loose wire. I then checked both fans but they both work. I really need a service manual.

  • Anonymous Jul 08, 2008

    My 4 year old E381T fridge freezer beeps every time either the fridge or freezer door is opened.  It drives us nuts.

  • Anonymous Jul 26, 2008

    5 year old F&P Active Smart Refrigerator & Vertical Freezer: The temperature gauge light is flashing constantly. Turned off for 48 hours, as advised by Service Dept. Still happening. Bought thermometer and have checked both compartments. Both right temperatures. But still happening about every 16 hours. (wakes me up during the night!!) I too have to push the temp button inside the fridge to get it to stop beeping when it goes off on it's own. It appears that no one on this site has the solution.

  • Anonymous Aug 16, 2008

    It beeps constantly with the doors shut, the lights at the back of top flash.

  • denisiel Aug 28, 2008

    House power went out and my Fisher & Paykel E415H fresh food compartment doesn't get cold - it is somewhat cool but milk still spoils at even the lowest temp setting. The freezer gets cold but not as much as before. Unit beeps occasionally. Tried to unplug, leave unplugged for an hour and then plugged back in.

    How do I remove the white panel in the back of the freezer to check the defrost element? Could the fresh food compartment fan be broken? The defrost heater?

    Would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks!


  • hannahclan Jan 30, 2009

    As above

  • bartolomeig May 11, 2010

    Where did you get the computer and a fan? How much were they? I suppose I am smart enough to fix it myself too ;)

    Bart

  • Anonymous Mar 23, 2014

    Plastic tray holding crisper crates

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First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.

Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.

Posted on May 12, 2008

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I had a similar problem with my E372b Fisher & Paykel. It started beeping at me and the light that indicates the lower freezer compartment would flash. I noticed that it began to occur more frequently and that the fridge compartment began to freeze on the bottom and was warm at the top so I began to suspect the fans weren't working. I decided to check out both fans myself and found both working - just by pulling the covers off - shutting the door to get them working and open the door and quickly look at them before they stopped. (They don't work when the doors are opened)
In the end I decided to ring a service technician. He came checked it out and replaced the top fan for the fridge part. He also said the bottom fan was probably over compensating for the top fan.
So if this helps it may pay to help to check the fans - and that they may slowly pack up and not work to the necessary level.

Posted on Oct 01, 2008

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The beeping indicates something is wrong and the flashes, or the combination of flashes is a code to pin-point the source of the trouble.
I replaced the computer and a fan in my E521 frdige and it came with a list of the codes for that model.
So if my E521 breaks down (again) I'll know where to look...
Paul

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

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Following up to my problem posted on August 28. Put a big bowl of water in freezer and wouldn't quite freeze solid. Refrigerator too cold or not cold at all. Temp gauge light flashing and beeping.

Called F& P in Hong Kong and they were extremely helpful but their diagnosis was incorrect - they said it was the defrost heater.

Turned out to be the refriderator fan. First, check if your fans are working in the refrigerator and freezer compartments. While door is open, hold a big magnet to the middle of the area where the door would close - this will activate the fan. If the fan doesn't turn on then pull the panel in the freezer and remove the fan. Test it with a multimeter. If fan is broken, get replacement one from F & P (about $65). Easy fix but difficult to diagnose unless you remove the panel.

Posted on Oct 01, 2008

  • royallan Sep 24, 2010

    the magnet test is good on both top and bottom doors (middle plastic plate)if niether fan works it could be the pc sensor.its plugged into the top of the control in fridge comartment.out of range .2.2k ohmes from memory at 20 degrees.if you unplug it and the fans operate during open circuit condition you,re on the money.the 12 v supply comes via a pc pack on the back .
    for any one with element problems it should be around 375 ohms.

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Sorry it's taken a while to return. The problem I outlined with the my E422B has been fixed. I diagnosed the fault as the heater element. I ordered a new part and replaced it as in this case it was an open circuit heater element and not the thermal fuses. The heater element and thermal fuses come as one unit. Total cost $85AUD and my time :-).

Posted on May 12, 2008

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