Question about Maytag 24 in. MDBH950AWS Built-in Dishwasher

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Maytag MDBH950AWS Dishwasher won't start

We have a Maytag MDBH950AWS Dishwasher that won't start. The only button that lights up is the "Heavy Wash" cyle. When this button is pressed, the "Heated Dry", "Sanatize" and "Extra Rinse" lights up. The dishwasher doesn't start. Eventually all of the lights go out. No other buttons light up when pressed.

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  • jamebond1234 Jul 25, 2008

    I have similar problem with the same model dishwasher. I can't activate the start/cancel button. All lights of cycles portion in the control panel are ok except the delay button. I can't select the delay button. Can someone help me? Which component should I check and how ? Thanks.

  • jamebond1234 Jul 25, 2008

    I have the same problem with my dishwasher model MDBH950AWB. The dishwasher won't start. All buttons in the control panel are light up when I pressed. Only the delay button that I can't select and have no light. Can anyone help me? Which component do I need to check and how? Thanks.

  • Anonymous Sep 22, 2008

    Dishwasher will not start. Initially, it was starting a cycle, filled partially, then shut down. Will not run now. The only buttons that respond to being depressed are the light wash and rinse only buttons, along with the delay button. Pressing a buttton will make it light up as if its going to start, but then all lights go out. Ours is a model MDB-6-i-dunno.

  • Anonymous Dec 05, 2008

    Extra same problem, looks like it needs a new latch and control assembly.

  • Anonymous Mar 01, 2009

    Same problem

  • Anonymous Mar 15, 2009

    exactly as described.

  • Anonymous Mar 15, 2014

    The dishwasher has been running now for a good 4 hours. (Pressed wrong button!!) Reading displayed is: d03. How can I get it to stop. Have tried pressing all the buttons. Do not have access to the power switch to switch machine off!! Help!

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We have a Maytag Dishwasher that won't start. The only button that lights up is the "Heavy Wash" cyle. When this button is pressed, the "Heated Dry", "Sanatize" and "Extra Rinse" lights up. The dishwasher doesn't start. Eventually all of the lights go out. the buttons start/cancel do not light up.could you in some way help?
Thank you.

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

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I would press the Medium/Light wash buttons and the Heavy LED lit up and the DW would run only the Hevy cycle. I replaced the front panel assembly to fix. I found corrosion on the end of the ribbon cable (black gunk that formed on thecable from panel to circuit board and where it becomes exposed to air/water) and that created a short between the other buttons/functions. I tried cleaning the corrosion/gunk away and ended up wiping the tiny little exposed wires away. I used a Q-tip, but niether rubbing alcohol or Nail polish remover (has acetione in it) helpded. Those cleaners and scratching with my finger nail removed the tiny wire tracks.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_beef7390c57fac0d

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • skybro760 Nov 09, 2013

    Once I replaced the control panel the second time I put a bead of silicon around the opening where ribbon comes out of the panel and it hasn't broke since.

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Disconnect the breaker in your fuse panel. Pull the door apart (by removing the screws) and at the bottom you will see the wiring harness going through the door.

Where the wiring harness goes inside the door it constantly rubs against a sheet metal "knife" that will eventually cut the insulation on the wires and they will short to ground. The one or two illuminated LED's on the panel indicate which wires are shorted to ground. Fix the wires with solder and heat shrink and add extra protection from the knife.

If this hasn't fried your control panel, you're lucky.

Posted on Feb 18, 2010

  • jafaganis Feb 18, 2010

    Disconnect the dishwasher breaker at your breaker panel so you can be sure there is no power to your dishwasher. Open the door on your dishwasher and take it apart using the 8 or so torx screws on the inside of the door. You will likely see wires with cut insulation at the bottom of the door where they exit the door. There is a sheet metal "knife" at the bottom of the door that will eventually cut through the insulation of the wiring harness where it leaves the door to go down to the motor area. Mine cut through and welded together. The wires welded together dead-shorted to the frame, and the 2 LED's that were illuminated on the panel corresponded to the dead-shorted wires (if you look at the schematic and diagnostic manual). I reset the panel before knowing of the dead short and ended up frying my panel.

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I have the same dishwasher, it is a piece of **** from the factory. they screwed up and we are stuck with this very poorly designed washer. What happens is condensation gets into the control board and shorts it out. I have replaced it once before and now the second one went out. it you take the control board off you will see water in the circuitry.

Posted on Dec 27, 2009

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REPLACE TIMER

Posted on Jan 18, 2008

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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