Just moved. New washer leaks water and appears tub is off center
We just moved and I am not sure which model but it is a new whirlpool washer, top loading. 3 new hoses were installed. I wasn't the one to move it but after inspecting it does not appear that there is any damage to the unit. The washer is level. Water valves turned on, nothing leaks. Engage washer to fill up and it leaks from below. When I lift the lid it looks as if the tub portion is off center, however, it still has that "free float feel". Can the wash tub portion get out of alignment and cause the washer to leak?
Re: Just moved. New washer leaks water and appears tub is...
CHECK THE BALANCE SPRING LOCATED (INSIDE LEFT REAR OF MACHINE). IF SPRING IS OFF IT CAN CAUSE THE TUB TO TILT TOWARD THE FRONT AND THE TUB FILL HOOD WILL NOT BE OVER THE TUB DURING FILLING OR THE TUB WILL BE ERATIC DURING THE SPIN WHEN RINSE WATER IS SPAYING IN CAUSE ING THE WATER TO MISS THE TUB AND SPRAY OUTSIDE. THIS IS COMMON IF THE UNIT HAS BEEN MOVED OR PLACED ON IT'S SIDE OR CARRIED AT EXTREME ANGLE.
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Re: Just moved. New washer leaks water and appears tub is...
No not really but you could of pulled the fill switch hose off (located on the side of the outter tub on the rear left facing washer its like a clear hose about 1/4" dia. or you could of bumped the pump and broke it. it is located on the motor at the very bottom of the machine front good luck and let me know what you find
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If you are experiencing consistent off-balance load issues with your Whirlpool top loading washer, it may be caused by a simple problem of needing to reset the auto-level mechanism and making sure the front feet are properly level. This advice may save you a service call and restore an unbalanced washer to running condition.
The rear feet on Whirlpool manufactured top loaders have an auto-leveling mechanism that you can easily reset yourself. Just follow these steps:
1. With the wash tub empty, open the washer lid and grasp the rim of the tub opening (do not grab the tub).
2. Now place one of your feet at the base of the washer along the front of the washer to keep it from moving.
3. Now pull the washer towards you so the rear feet lift off the floor a couple of inches. You should hear a clicking sound as the rear feet auto-level.
4. Carefully set the washer back down (do not slam it) and the rear of the washer should now be level.
Using a level, check the washer front to back and side to side to make sure it is level in all directions.
If you need to adjust the washer washer front feet, carefully lift the front of the washer and turn the feet to either adjust them up or down. The slightest difference can cause excessive vibration on the final spin. Check by placing your hands at opposite corners on top of the washer (diagonally - one on the rear, one on the front) and try rocking the washer to see if it moves. If the washer wobbles, you need to readjust.
This advice is for all Whirlpool manufactured top loaders with a direct-drive system such as Kenmore, Estate, Kelvinator, Roper, and Frigidaire. If in doubt, please post your MODEL NUMBER when submitting questions, so that I can determine if your washer is configured with this feature.
This does NOT include the Oasis, Cabrio or Calypso models.
My Whirlpool WTW6600 had the same problem. The tub no longer floated up and down on the center shaft, so it only spun, not agitated. You must remove the tub (with some effort) and lightly sand / clean the center shaft. Lube it lightly with wheel bearing grease so that after it is reassembled, you can pull the tub upward and feel about 1/2" movement. This will enable the proper gear assembly to engage. It can spin when it rests at the bottom of its travel, but once you fill the tub, it floats, moving upward, and engaging the agitation gear. Good Luck!
Sounds like the main outer tub and bearing assembly is bad. Water has(is) leaking through the main center seal, through the bearings(noise your hearing is these bearings) The tub and bearings with seal and center shaft come as a assembly, not a inexpensive repair. Also the water is getting on a little electronic board called the roto position sensor which can fail, found as part of the motor assembly on the bottom. Causes corrosion on the connection to the wiring. Your main problem is the outer tub assembly........ Good luck.......(I would also suggest you unplug the drain motor(some have a recirculation pump also) to make sure while spinning empty to run only the main motor that this is for sure the noise and water leak if this is your first repair)
I understand you have a problem with your stacked washer & dryer, thank you for providing the model number (of both) that is a good start... however I need to follow that up with a couple of questions.
Are these "new to you" machines or have you had them prior to this and just never stacked ?
Also had you run the washer before they where stacked and not noticed an vibrations violently/noise like a hammer spinning inside?
Finally, what method did you use to fasten the dryer to the top of the washer and did you remove the cabinet top of the washer before stacking...for the record it should not be removed as was the case with some other manufactured machines.
Let me know if you can add anything further along with the make & model. I will wait for your reply to move forward.
This is usually the agitator dogs have worn out or broke. These are very inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru the proper inspecting and replacement of these parts. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.
after movining a machine the most common reason for them not to start after re-instalation is the water supply, almost everyone forgets to turn the water supply to the hoses back on after re-connecting the hoses so this would be your 1st point of check..