Question about Amana ALW880WH Top Load Washer
The water will continue to fill the washer and the cycle does not start
I just fixed this problem on my GE washer that overflowed earlier into my hallway and living room. The fix required removing the tube from its connection at the outer tub and cleaning out some residue that was preventing air from moving to the sensor at the top of the machine at the control panel. No tools were needed other than a large steak knife to undo the clips to remove the front panel of the machine and a small flat head screw driver that I used to clean out the plastic pressure hose.
The good news is that even if this had not worked and the sensor/switch needed to be replaced, the part is available for replacement at the local hardware superstore and a few online outlets for around thirty dollars. Replacement of the switch looks to be relatively simple by disconnecting the existing wiring housing and replacing with a new part.
There are several detailed diagrams available online by doing a search for your product/ model number.
Be sure to check the hose before replacing the pressure sensor/switch- this will save time and money.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
The water level sensor switch may be bad, or the tubing connected to it has come loose or is leaking.
Inside your washer, there is a plastic or rubber tube that extends from the bottom of the tank to the top of the washer where it attaches to a pressure sensor. The pressure sensor is probably near or attached to the water level knob. The top of the tube should be connected to the pressure sensor switch and sealed so that air cannot escape. When the water level rises in the tank...and in the tube...the air pressure inside the tube increases. When the air pressure reaches a certain point, the pressure sensor is activated which causes the water to stop and the wash cycle to begin.
The tube should be inspected to make sure it's not filling with water due to an air leak at the top. Check to be sure the tube is still attached to the pressure switch. If you are not familiar with electrical testing, you may need assistance from someone with a volt meter to test the pressure switch...although, if the tubing is okay...the switch is probably bad.
Good luck...and I hope this is helpful!
Posted on Jan 17, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
it will fill but won,t spin, will throw out water as if it washed, then it take water to rinse but won,t spin ,then will throw out water as if it did , but clothes are soaked
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
Jmars, under the consol there is two pressure switches. One controls the fill and the other is back-up incase the other fails. It sounds like your water pressure switch is tripping too soon. Try putting the washer into a self test mode by pressing in this order soak--soil level---soak--soil level. The machine should enter a test mode. Let it run it's test and see if you come up with any error codes. The pressure switch is the one on the left under the consol. It will be marked OPR, the part number is 8054766. The consol will lift up by using a putty knife under each end, pushin on the clips and lifting up. The back panel of the consol is removable. Catriver..post back
Posted on Apr 15, 2007
This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If the washer fills, agitates, then stops at the rinse and won't drain, or if the washer does an initial fill, then stops, this is a symptom of a lid switch malfunction.
The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
If the lid switch is found to be defective, it can be purchased at any of the following websites:
The average price is $25 to $35. Prices vary between these sites, so shop around for the best deal.
This is a very simple repair, but if you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
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