Hi. The first inspection point will be to check the belt. This is a common issue. The belt may have slipped off,or it may be severed, as well. Normally,if this is the case, you will hear the motor running, but the drum/basket will not spin. If this is not an issue, move on to the door switch assembly. his unit will not initiate a full scaled spin if the door switch is damaged, or faulty. Use the procedure below to test the functionality of the door switch.
The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the washer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the washer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.
Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top, removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.
Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.
If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.
Now, if the door switch passes the inspection and test, the culprit will be the motor control board.
Hello Dorothy - Does the drain pump make a humming noise? If so, there may be a restriction in the drain line or siphoning. Otherwise since it is such a complex unit I would recommend contacting a professional to have either the pump or timer diagnose.
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