The water fills and drain from the bottom of the washing machine. Have checked all the pipes no problem. Please advice

Hi,

if you've checked your manual's troubleshooting section and the solution for the issue isn't present, please call Hobart directly and ask them to send out or recommend a home technician. If they can't, then please schedule a diagnosis with home depot.

Thank you.

check your condensation defrost run off line for blockage. may have to remove the back interior panel of the freezer to access the water catch pan. debris blocking the drain or the defrost line will cause overflow into fridge interior

What this actually signifies is that there is a problem with the spray arms; they are blocked, needs cleaning.
Then, check on the filters as well, its an uncommon problem, but once cleaned, run the machine on a hottest wash, hope it clears the problem. Check inside for the hose (see if in place or off the top spray bar)to check whether water is going into the spray bars and spray arms work well. ----------

The 5 flashes indicate a spray. Pump fault, either blocked or motor fault.

Press and hold the start button until the light goes out.

Select a program and try the machine again.--------

This should help.keep updated.Thanks.Helpmech,.

Hello cnt.... If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows: If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these: The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it. The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

I have an electric oven and the same problem: loads of steam when I open the door. Plus roasting is a problem, the pan fills up with water and needs to be drained so things are stewing and not roasting. Have spent ages trying to to find a solution so would also appreciate any advice.

theres a chance you have a deffective solenoid staying open causing the water to overfill the boiler tank and passing out the overflow into the quench box and down the drain!

Pop the front cover off by using a putty knife to push the clips in (2) at the seam where it meets the washer's top. Pull the thin hose off the left side of the tub and clean it out. (do this with the tub empty) replace tube and front panel and you are good to go.

Explaination: The goop in the tube prevents air from escaping as the water level droped, thus the washer thinks it is still full of water. If it thinks it is full of water, it will not fill any more, nor will it spin.

To prevent this from re-occouring, I'd suggest filling the machine to the lowest level with hot water and adding several cups of bleach. Run the cycle (with no clothes) to help clear out the goop. Use an extra large rinse to make sure there is no bleach residue before doing a load of clothing again. Do this about once every 3 months, and I don't think you'll see the problem again.

The drain pipe must be repaired or you will have water in the house when you use the washer.

Hello, this sounds like you have a blockage in the drain tube, remove panel back of freezer..you may see ice build up...melt ice with hair dryer/heat gun...you will see a pan below evaporator...melt ice in pan...dry water up in pan with paper towel...now you should see a hole in pan that leads to drain tube...pour some hot water in pan..wait a couple minutes..mop up water and repeat this step 2-3 times....once you have done this find some flexible curatain wire or electrical wire..poke down the hole until you see the water drain..now it is clear..put back panel back and you are good to go. The reason you see water in the Freezer is because the water has been leaking into the freezer instead of running into the drain hole...If you need any further assistance please feel free to comment again. good luck! P.s Please don't forget to rate my solution thanks! Mike.

The problem with the fabric softener not dispensing is not likely related to and F03 error code due to the washer not draining.

For the dispenser problem, I recommend that you pull the dispenser drawer out and clean it thoroughly.
The fabric softener dispenser works on a siphoning principle.
Make sure that the siphon hole in the dispenser is clear and not restricted or plugged.

You can fill the fabric softener compartment with water and make sure that it is siphoning properly while you are cleaning it.
Make sure that the cover is properly replaced on the fabric softener dispenser when the drawer is replaced in the washer.
You can use the diagnostic test described below to test the fabric softener dispenser.
If the softener dispenser does not fill and dispense properly, you could have a failed dispenser valve, a failed control board or a wiring failure between components.

You indicated that you tested the pump and that it is good. You could have a clogged drain hose or a clogged washer drain that would prevent the washer from draining.
You could also have a failed drain pump even though it runs. If the impeller is jammed or damaged, it will not pump out the water in the washer.
You will likely need to unplug the washer and drain the water out of the tub using a wet/dry shop vacuum.
To check the pump and drain hose at the bottom of the washer, remove the bottom front service panel and remove the drain pump. You may find a clog or restriction in the drain pump or connecting hoses. If the drain pump is damaged or will not work, it will need to be replaced.



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