Whihc dryer would you recommend to minimize escaping lint? My dryer vent is 25 horizontal.feet with 2 ,90's, all rigid 4" metal, all joints clamped or taped. Fantech booster fan on end of run. Static pressure in vent is almost 0. We have had 2 cheaper dryers in last two year at around $400 each. First was Kenmore. Gave away due to lint problem. Works fine in its new home where exhaust is directly to the outside. Second is Maytag. Added the booster fan, problem remains.
Are there any dryers with extra strong exhaust fans, perhaps independent of the drum motor and/or with above-average sealing to reduce lint escaping?
3-M HVAC filter engineers tell me particulate matter increases when dryers are operated, but that they understand some manufactures recognize this and offer "tigher" models.
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Re: electric dryer lint
You are purchasing new dryers when the problem is your vent line. The fact that your old dryer is now working in a different home, and your new dryer still has the same problem as the old dryer, leads me to suggest that you reroute your vent line some how. Your dryer vent line is really too long. The fact that you've added two 90 degree bends also leads to the issue of lint build up problems by creating added resistnace. It's a simple theory of operation when it comes to dryers. The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line the BETTER. All vent hoses create some resistance to air flow. It is typical in longer runs that the lines build up and accumulation of fine lint over a period time which adds weight to the line. This can cause the line to sag and restrict lint even more. Any bend in the line (especially 90 degree bends) also create points of resistance where lint tends to build up. This eventually leads to clogs, longer dry times, dryer overheating and eventual failure of the appliance. Purchasing higher end models does not necessarily equate to better performance. Many of your low end Kenmore, Maytag and Whirlpool models are great dryers and last years with proper care and maintenance. Even though you don't have this configuration, I thought I might add that it's also a bad idea to have vent lines that run vertical (such as in an attic). Dryer exhaust has moisture content from the clothes. When the lint mixes with this moisture it becomes more dense. If you have a vent line that runs vertical, this line will eventually settle at the lowest point of the vent line (which is usually right where it enters the wall). Reroute your vent line and shorten it and I bet your problems will go away. It's cheaper to spend the money on some semi-rigid vent hose than several hundreds on another appliance that will probably give you the same results. I hope this helps you,
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The CHECK VENT duct blockage sensing system detects and alerts you to blockages in the duct work that reduce exhaust flow from the dryer. This light does not indicate any problems with your dryer. If this light blinks, it indicates that your home's exhaust system/duct work has a serious restriction
Every time the dryer is turned on, the CHECK FILTER LIGHT WILL BLINK, as a reminder to make sure the filter is clean. Always make sure the lint filter is clean before starting a new load; a clogged lint filter will increase drying times.
The Kenmore Elite dryer has a sensor that detects poor exhaust venting, and when it does, a light flashes on the control panel. This warning light does not include a mechanism to stop gas flow, but if it is allowed to flash for an extended period, poor venting may cause the dryer to overheat. As a result, a fuse might blow and disable the gas valve or ignitor. You can prevent this by diagnosing the reason for the flashing indicator light as soon as possible.
In many cases, LINT has built up somewhere in the exhaust pipes.
Check under the lint filter. Pull it out,look inside the slot it fits in, and clear all lint from this area.
Is it possible you have used the WRONG VENT MATERIAL?
Check your vent to make sure it is 4 inch rigid or semi-rigid metal ducting. If your venting is plastic or flexible foil, replace it before using the dryer.
Check your vent hood outside. You may have a restricted or damaged vent hood. It must be clean and free of lint buildup. Check the damper and make sure it opens fully and easily and is free of lint.
I know you said you have no elbows, but I have posted the pipe run lengths with and without elbows. Keep in mind this is with 4 inch rigid or semi rigid metal ducting.
Measure the length of your exhaust system and count the elbows. Use the chart below to see if your duct is too long. If it is too long, have the duct routed to another location that is within the venting guidelines.
0~90 degree elbows=65 ft of 4 inch rigid metal duct.
1~90 degree elbow=55 ft of 4 inch rigid metal duct.
2~90 degree elbows=47 ft """"""""
3~90 degree elbows=36 ft """"""""
4~90 degree elbows=28 ft """"""""
You should always use duct tape or metal tape on all joints, NEVER USE SCREWS, as screws capture lint inside the pipe.
One more note. Lots of people overlook the fact that fabric softeners can build up on the lint filter over time. This buildup can restrict the airflow through the filter reducing dryer efficiency and lengthening drying times. After removing lint, if the filter looks dark or dirty when held up to the light, follow these steps to clean:
Use hot soapy water and a stiff brush to clean
Make sure the filter is completely dry before
reinstalling it and using the dryer.
NEVER operate the dryer with a wet lint filter.
The vent pipe codes are based on the fact that the blower in a typical gas dryer can only 'push' a certain volume of air through a certain sized duct for a certain number of feet. Reduced volume of airflow means higher temperatures thus higher risk of fire. First option ... is your dryer anywhere near a side wall, which would allow you to shorten the total length of duct required to reach the outside to something less than the 14 ft code limit ? Second option ... upsize the standard 4" dryer exhaust duct to 6" to compensate for the 30ft length Either way, in the absence of an external forced draft booster fan ( a.k.a. 'power vent' fan ) you should be using metal exhaust duct not plastic.
yes you can vent it through that rectangular vent...it would be recommended though that ya have a sheet metal shop in your area make a tranistional piece from the 4"round vent to the size of that duct.
Codes typically require that the dryer duct be no more than 25 feet long. It should be 2.5 feet shorter than 25 feet for every 45-degree bend and 5 feet shorter for every 90-degree bend. If the duct is more than 25 feet in length, the system requires a booster fan or a high-output dryer. Ducts should be smooth metal with a minimum diameter of 4". Flexible ducts shouldn't be used, since they collect more lint and can easily be crushed, impeding airflow and potentially starting lint fires. The ducts shouldn't have screws or connectors, which could collect lint, blocking the flow of combustion gases. Backdrafting can occur if the ducts are blocked, sending harmful carbon monoxide back into the home.
Pull the exhaust vent off and check for obstructions, if there's no flow, all the heat is going to build up and also block any lint from escaping out the vent as well. This can be a fire hazard as well. You may also need to open the dryer and clean out all the lint build up. When you pull the pull flex hose off the back (the 4"diameter one) check in the back of the machine in the pipe and also in the flex tube. You may have to explore a little in the exhaust line to find the blockage...sounds like this is your issue... k
If you are experiencing moisture inside the dryer drum, then you have a clog somewhere. A dryer needs proper air flow in order to dry efficiently. If you have not had your dryer exhaust vent ducting checked anytime recently, now might be a good time to do so.
HOW TO DETERMINE IF YOU HAVE A DRYER CLOG:
Remove the dryer exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees F).
If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry properly, you need to check the ventilation from the point where it leaves the dryer, to where it exits your home. Check for kinks, sags or significant bends in the vent ducting that may be causing choke points where lint can accumulate. In addition, it is strongl;y recommended that you use the semi-rigid aluminum ducting as it resists crushing and is heat resistant.
If the air flow is weak, then you have a clog INTERNAL to the dryer. The lint screens do not catch everything. Some lint, along with moist air from your clothes gets exhausted through the blower fan housing and out through the ducting. This is normal. Lint can accumulate over time, however. If allowed to restrict the air flow, the moist air cannot escape and tends to permiate the lint with moisture. Once the lint becomes moist, it sticks inside the ducting and collects more lint to the point where it starts to restrict air flow and reduce the dryer efficiency. It is highly recommended that you check your dryer blower fan housing and internal ducting about once per season to prevent this.
If gone unchecked, the dryer will actually overheat to the point of failure. Accumulations of lint is also a major fire hazard. The majority of the dryer failures I have repaired were caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
You might want to check with your local building codes, because different states have different requirements, but for an electric dryer, a flexible vinyl tube should be fine. Better options are rigid metal, and flexible rigid metal tubing which are both more expensive, but stay cleaner longer and last longer.