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The 2 470uf caps on the driver board can cause that type problem if they are bulging. Be sure to use low ESR caps for the repair. They will also need to be high temp and high ripple current. DO not use ones from Radio Shack, they can damage the board when they fail. Capacitors from Nichicon, United Chemicon, Rubycom and Panasonic are the best ones to use for this type repair. Just check the ratings.
it may have dying power supply due to bad caps, please read and see the pictures of bad caps and failed monitors so you will know what you are looking for. If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on: Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply (they should be replaced in a set), blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.
Comon problem with this model are the 4 bad caps (100Uf) on the inverter board, they developem high ESR and you must replace them with FM/FC PANASONIC with low ESR type, the four bad one has 100uf value whaich checked out OK but the ESR was more than 3 Ohms, I replace them with one 470uf (they use the smaller but with four caps due to spacing requirement becuase this same inverter board is also used in the very low profile monitor they cannot use large body cap, but your monitor chassis has a lot of room for bigger body caps. http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Gateway%20FPD1830/
F1 is the surface mounted fuse. and it should be less than 1 Ohm.
Replace thee 1000uf caps too. A capacitor meter will not test the ESR ( equivalent series resistance ) of the caps the cap meter will show them to be good but an ESR meter will show then to be bad. Also be sure to use low ESR caps. If you use general purpose aps like from Radio Shack it can damage the board board because of the ESR rating. The temp rating needs to be 105c or the new caps will blow out within a month because of the heat in the monitor case ( No fans ).
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Open it up and the first place to look will be the power supply section, look for bad caps with bulging top/bottomseal, post back what you see so we can guide you further, see example of failed monitors due to bad caps: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
The problem you have is caused by one of two things,
either a blown power supply in the backlight inverter or bad backlight
bulbs. More than likely it is the bad power supply. The problem in the
power supply are parts called capacitors, they blow out because of the
heat trapped inside the monitor enclosure. If you can solder you should
be able to repair this type of problem. You can go to our web site at: www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm
we have pictures of what the capacitors look like when they blow out.
Take the case off the back of your monitor and look for any that look
like the pictures. Replace all of the ones that are bad, the values of
the caps are printed on the side of each one. You can order replacement
caps from several places on the internet or contact us and we can
supply them for you. When installing the replacement caps be sure to
insert the new ones with the stripe on the side going the same way. If
you don't want to do the repairs yourself we offer a repair service. If
you have any additional questions just email me.
I had the exact same problem. The screen went black and the green light flashed. I went ahead and took the monitor apart (scary) and took a look at the power supply circuitry. I saw 6 suspicious electrolytic caps on the board. Three 470uF 25V 105 degree C caps, two 1000uF 10V 105 degree C caps, and one 470uF 10V 105 degree cap. They all appeared to be slightly bulging and one even had a small hole in the top. I decided to replace all of them. The parts cost a little more than 5 bucks. I couldn't find a 470uF 10V cap at my local store so I bought a 16 V version instead, which is fine. Anyway, after replacing all 6 caps, the monitor works as good as new.
What are the symptoms? How do you know the fuse was blown on the monitor you bought? The fuse on vx924 is soldered onto the circuit board. If you have any symptoms that require power its probably not the fuse. The back lighting on this unit has a problem. Three 25v 470uf caps on the circuit board are underrated and have a tendency to go bad. Replace them with 35v 470uf caps.
I just did this capacitor replacement today after reading these posts. It worked great! I used 470uF
35volt caps from radio shack. There are three 470uF caps two right next to each other and one off by itself on the printed circuit board. The values are easily seen on the side of the capacitors. Open the monitor by removing the screws and prying the halves apart using a large straight edge screwdriver. There is a metal cover over the printed circuit board that will come loose after removing screws around its edge. There are several wire sockets that must be unplugged to allow the circuit board to be flipped over to reveal the capacitors. The board itself is held down with three screws
Once you identify the capacitors, use a fine tipped soldering pencil to melt the solder holding the capacitors in place and remove them. Position the new caps with the dark stripe matching up to the lined marks on the board, carefully apply just enough solder to each terminal to hold the caps in place. Reassemble and you're done.
We had a power surge and my VL2018W LCD monitor stopped working... blank screen and flashing blue light.
I carefully opened up the back and found the power board (the one the AC plug goes into). There were about 5 electrolytic capacitors that were bulging (but not ruptured). There were 3 with the values listed by the original poster (470uF @ 25V) and 2 with 1000uF @ 10V.
I scrounged a couple of 2200uF@10V caps for the last two and bought 3 470uF @ 35V caps from Radio Shack (P/N 272-1030).
Luckily, the monitor came right back up and seems to be OK. It was out of warranty, so there wasn't a big risk.
Just increasing the working voltage won't do that much for you. If any caps are bad, just replacing them with the same value is good enough, but a higher working voltage won't hurt (usually means a bigger cap).