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Posted on Jan 15, 2008
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Thread tension problem when sewing on heavy fabrics

I have a Bernina 180 and I'm trying to sew some denim using special denim thread (heavier than the usual C&C stuff you buy for a buck-fifty).

I am using a jeans needle.

But I cannot get the thread tensions to lay properly and it looks like a mess! Using standard Bernina 180 tensions, the top *looks* somewhat okay from the topside although the stitches are not *neat*, they are a little crooked.

The bottom side looks awful. The top thread is pulled to the bottom as loops and the bobbin thread looks very *zig-zag*-ish between each stitch. And when I pull out the mess of stitching, the bobbin thread easily pulls straight out without any fight from the top thread that looped through to the bottom.

How do I fix this??? I cannot seem to find the right combo of tensions to make the stitches look neat both top and bottom.

  • CA_Stitcher Jan 16, 2008

    Well, I can understand that the machine isn't liking the thread. But I think a Bernina 180 *should* be able to handle a heavier thread for standard sewing. I mean it's a Bernina after all!



    Plus my application requires a heavier thread.



    Anyone else have any ideas?

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  • Bernina Master 1,134 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 13, 2012
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If you are using buttonhole twist or heavy topstitch and normal thread underneath machine tensions wont like it. Try using regular thread top and bottom but use two same colour on top and thread both through needle but put one either side of tension discs if you can. Top stitching jeans is problematic for manymachines even Berninas

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  • Posted on Feb 08, 2008
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Sometimes when I need to use heavy thread for top stitching to reinforce a seam that has come undone, I will use the heavy thread on the top and regular thread on the bottom. I haven't tried it the other way around for hemming but I would think it would work. I do not currently have a Bernina.

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Hello! I have a Juki DDL-8100 e. the thread is constantly breaking when I go through thicker fabric - bobbin seems loose too.. could anyone help?

I'm not familiar with this machine but it sounds as though your top tension is too tight so that when you sew through heavy material the thread isnt slack enough to go through that extra thickness and so simply snaps. Try reducing the tension a little at a time and see how your stitching is affected.
Another issue might be that you are trying to sew a heavy fabric and using too light a thread. You need to match your thread to the job in hand. For a thicker thread you need heavier top tension. If your machine has been correctly serviced you should not have to alter the bobbin tension at all under normal circumstances as thicker thread will automatically have a heavier tension as it goes under the bobbin case spring and so you have to match this heavier tension with a higher top tension in order to get a perfect lockstitch.
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If you are using standard weight thread, just set the tension at the midway point. The tension may start out too tight, so you'll just need to lighten the upper tension until it's where you want it.

If you are using heavier thread, then you'll probably need to loosen the bobbin tension as well as the top tension. (Frankly, I would try to avoid that prospect as you'll need to change the bobbin tension back to where it was when you start a different project on lighter weight fabric). Be sure you use a denim needle, or even top stitch needle.

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Refer to 'Manuals Online', Brother sewing machine user manual. There is an excellent guide to tension settings for all fabric types. Also remember to check upper and lower thread has been wound through correctly and are using the same thread top and bottom. Ensure you have the correct needle size for denim ie 100/16 and the correct thread size ie 40-50 cotton or heavy duty polyester.
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Usually, one will adjust the bobbin tension to accommodate heavier thread. If one does this often, a separate bobbin case set up for heavier thread is handy.

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Most likely, it has to do with incompatibility of the needle, thread, and fabric. The force of the needle penetrating the fabric multiple times is actually causing the thread to (wear &) fray and eventually break. There are needles with larger grooves that tend to protect the thread during stitching. Some may recommend a Top Stitch Needle (Home Machine Needles Superior Threads Why Topstitch? The Topstitch needle is the most common needle type used and recommended by professionals and educators. We recommend the Topstitch for piecing, quilting, embroidery, appliqu?, and construction. These needles are available in four sizes to accommodate all thread types, including metallic threads. The Topstitch needle has a larger eye and deeper groove. It is often referred as the MAGIC NEEDLE. It really does make a difference in your sewing experience.)
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You may also consider changing the type of thread you are using. Go with a stronger thread, ie polyester, rather than cotton. Cotton will shred and break easier.

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If you sewing fabric that is sticky, ie vinyl, oilcloth, you should try to use a roller presser foot, a teflon presser foot, or a walking foot to help the fabric move with the feed dogs.

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FWIW, if the machine still works fine with regular fabric and thread, then you'll know that the issues revolve around the current project.

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