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Solid cooktop elements not heating,tripping breaker switch in panel box,w&w/o cartridges

13 yr old solid cooktop cartidges,tripped braker switch with&without cartriges. no indicator lights,also something loose in cartidges. please

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Re: solid cooktop elements not heating,tripping breaker...

By cartriges do you mean the sockets that the element plug into? If so when one of these burn out it will cause these type of problems.

Posted on Jan 15, 2008

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All 4 elements suddenly won't heat--worked fine this am. Circuit breaker was tripped. Reset, now lights on knobs come on, but still no heating.

Likely a short in the junction box. Turn off the breaker and open the junction box for inspection. Problem is likely at the cooktop end of the feed from the breaker.

Check voltage at the junction. Should one side of the corcuit be dead, turn off power and call an electrician as the wiring probably has had a short due to staple or nail penetration and would be a fir hazard. Call an electrician if this is the case.

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My amana model AKT3040 is making a loud "pow" when i turn it on with a white flash under the glass, then the breaker trips. It is 6 years old this month, not under warrenty, Should i try to get a repair...

Amana will confirm this - but I am fairly sure that the elements under the glass are replaceable. Most units by other manufacturers are repairable...but if yours is not, then careful shopping around will save a ton on parts cost.
Labor will vary by market...but it is typically better to have the replacement part when contacting a repair service.

Oh, yes, the snap is a broken burner element. the breaker trips because the resistance on a shorted element is insufficient - and the current draw becomes excessiver - popping the breaker.

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there is a short for sure, sometimes when the heating element burns out and melts, it touches the metal inside the housing causing a short. inspect the heating elements in the oven(top and bottom). the loud buzzing sound is what a shorting out heating element makes as it melts like a weldin rod, usually because of using tin foil(not recommended)

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It sounds like you have lost 1 leg of 220V power to the unit. Chances are, one of the elements shorted to ground, then blew itself open.

Find the breaker or fuse box, and reset/replace breakers/fuse. If it blows again, you'll have to locate which element is bad, or where the short is.

I can help more once I know if there was a breaker trip, or fuse was blown. I will also need to know if it is one element, or all the elements., that exhibit the same problem. I can instruct you on identifying the bad element as well, and replacement elements are available.

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if your breakers have become week they may trip with a lesser amp draw.sooooo if they trip right when you turn on a switch on the range, then it is a short in the range.if it trips after your using it abit its your breaker.hope it helps God bless ,tom

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Replace the burner and receptacle and you should be short free. You may also need to replace the surface element switch too if it doesn't come on at all or stays on high regardless off knob setting.

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I had the same problem. Mine was caused by liquid seeping into the infinite switch (the switch that gets rotated by the knob to set burner temperature). This caused one of the live wires to short to ground within the switch. Bad Design IMHO. Replacing the switch fixed the problem (you can get replacement parts at - search using the cooktop model number). To get at the switch you need to remove the top by taking off only the top row of screws all around the unit and also in the down draft cavity.

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