Suddenly my dishwasher shows no sign of power. We checked the GFCI outlets to make sure there is power to the machine, but it shows no sign of even having power. The disposal switch is on the same outlet and works fine. Is there some sort of reset button? By the way this is the KUDPO1FL model.
I had the same problem with my dishwasher. I have model number kudso2frss4. My husband and Father-in-law checked all the electrical and they were all fine. They found that the high-limit tub thermostat was bad. They bypassed it with a wire until the part comes in. It is working great now. Hope it helps good luck
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Make sure the unit is plugged into the outlet under the sink. sometimes when moving things around under the sink, the plug may have come out of the socket in the wall. If that is ok, then you will need to make sure the D/W is getting power. You can use a multi-meter or small plug-in checker that lights up when inserted into the receptacle or outlet to check for power, or have a qualified electrician check for you. Also, just because a breaker does not look like it is tripped, doesn't mean its not. Sometimes that also has to be checked to verify it still has power. Most have to be fully turned off, then back on to be sure it has reset. One more thing to check would be to see if the dishwasher is connected to a GFCI as that may have tripped.
Hello. Critical question--is the dishwasher on that GFCI circuit!? If so, (A) you might have voided any warranty and (B) you should NEVER have appliances with digital boards on a GFCI circuit. Why? Because the method GFCI breakers and outlets use to keep us safe(how they reference current to ground) can blow out the electronic control boards plugged in to the circuit they monitor. I am ALWAYS telling my customers to immediately switch out an outlet or breaker which is protecting a washer, dishwasher, or microwave. I know that electrical codes often mandate that a GFCI device be within 3 feet of a water source but the design engineers didn't think about that one...It often is buried in the users manual to NOT connect the device to a GFCI.
Now, after all that, I need the model number of your unit to help you most accurately--some dishwashers have a main fuse on or near the main control board. If this fuse opens, voila! The unit is D-E-A-D until you replace the fuse. However, if there isn't a fuse, you've got a blown main board(and possibly user control panel, too). Power slams like the one you experienced are notorious for damaging control boards. That's why power outages are so destructive--they either blow out boards immediately or cause them to fail in about 3-4 weeks afterwards due to the damaged chips on the board starting to fail from over-current/voltage. I hope I helped you!
r u sure circuit breaker is good? did u check the washer terminal black or timer for voltage??
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
WASHER WILL NOT START:
If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.
The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.
The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.
Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.
Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
I would check the simple solutions first. Make sure there is power to the receptacle its pluged into. If it's hard wired then make sure there is power by opening up the bottom, front panel and you will see the wiring compartment. There you will be able to check for power with a voltage tester. If no power then check all gfci receptacles and the breakers in your panel.
If power is on then you will have to replace either the main control panel or the entire washing machine in the worst case scenario.
You've lost a neutral connection at: one of the terminals somewhere; inside the outlet; broken strap between the neutral pads on the standard outlet; or the tester is providing an erroneous indication.
Does it read OK on the BOTH receptacles of the first outlet? Check the terminals that provide output on the first outlet and the LINE terminals of the GFCI . Bad at the first outlet? Check the input on the first outlet. Bad? Check splices between outlet and service panel and neutral connection at neutral bus bar inside panel. OK? Check the input to the GFCI - make sure on LINE terminals and proper polarity is observed.
Double check the line and load terminal screws of the GFCI outlet. Make sure that the power coming into the GFCI is connected to the LINE terminals. Be sure to connect the HOT and NEUTRAL wires to the proper LINE terminals. Neutral conductor (white) connects to the silver colored screws and hot (black or red) connects to the gold colored LINE screws. If you are sending power out to supply additional loads that are to be GFCI protected, the rules above apply - but connect to the LOAD screws.
check the breaker panel to make sure that the breaker didn't trip.
also could be a bad breaker in the panel.
also could be a bad outlet ( under sink ) -- or the outlet could be combined ( in-line ) with a GFCI outlet that may have tripped or is faulty.
use a meter or a outlet tester to make sure that you have 120VAC at the outlet.
The dishwasher should be plugged into a GFCI outlet, most likely in the cabinet under the sink. Check to make sure the outlet has not tripped. There should be test and reset buttons on the outlet. Reset it and try again. The GFCI outlet has a finite life span and I have seen the outlet fail. If there is no power after a reset, then try to replace the outlet with a similar one. If the outlet is not under the sink, it may be behind the dishwasher.
Many RVs / Coaches have the fridge power receptacle protected by a GFCI outlet that is located in the kitchen, perhaps bathroom, areas. Check to see if this outlet is tripped. If it isn't, try plugging a lamp into the fridge outlet to see if it works.
If it does, then the control board may have gotten spiked by a converter surge while power was being lost (also a sign of a failing converter). You can also measure the resistance of the heating element with a multimeter. You should see about 44 ohms (give or take 10%). If the heating element is out of tolerance, the fridge won't use it, but it should throw a code indicating a problem.
If the outlet doesn't work, look for other dead outlets in your coach. Double check GFCI outlets, make sure they are not tripped. And, of course, make sure that all your breakers are turned on, and not partially tripped as well.
Verify there is power to the electrical outlet. Make sure that a GFCI breaker has not tripped. Try unplugging it from the electrical outlet for about 5 minutes and plug it back in. Does this computer have a soft touch control panel? With the power disconnected remove the inner panel to reach the control panel board. Inspect the ribbon connector and make sure that the connector is fully inserted and has not slipped out. Check the ribbon connector for any signs of a short. My dishwaher was doing the same thing and it turned out the control panel ribbon connector had shorted across causing it not to work. If the contol panel tests good then lt could be a fuse located somewhere on the dishwasher or the computer board.
Check power cord is plugged all the way in. Make sure GFCI plug is not tripped and button is set if it has one. Try unplugging the appliance from the power for a minute then plug it back in and see if that works. If those are good you could dis-assemble the front panel(unplug first) and inspect ribbon connector on control board. Make sure connector is fully seated and has not come loose. Look for signs of any tiny shorts across the connector. Could be a bad control panel board. I had a similar problem and it turned out the ribbon connector for the control panel had shorted. I had to buy a new control panel online(ribbon connector could not be repaired).