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for your subs and amp the best way would be for the speakers to be wired in series1ch (mono or bridged)to have a 4 ohm load to your amp stable at 2 ohms
see pic for wiring diagram for 2 1 ohm dvc subs wired in series.
you will need more than one speaker wire for wiring the subwoofers coils(positive & negative terminals) together
hope this helps :~)
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage is OK, the amp will likely need to be repaired. If that's the case, do you want to repair it yourself? This amp may not be easy to repair. If you are not interested in learning to do this type of work, you should pay to have it repaired. If you want to repair it yourself, I'll try to help you through it.
the wire from your battery is blowing fuses? and you are using 20-30 A fuses? mine has a 100A fuse..look into getting new wire plus my wire is 4 gauge.., 1600 watts is too powerful for a 12 g wire and a 30 A fuse
i just checked the ford's..3 liter,12 valve....i see car has four o2's and all identical with heater inside.. i also found the lexus....i tried attaching a screen shot of each wiring..but size limits prohibit...i looked at wire colors...they don't agree ford to ford and lexus to lexus nor cross breed colors...on lexus are four pins.. pin 1 is heater pin 2 is battery pos (looks like other end of heater filament) pin 3 is sensor out pin 4 is ground (possibly sensor)
on ford... pin 1 is battery pos (looks like other end of heater filament)
pin 2 is heater
pin 3 is sensor out
pin 4 is sensor out