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Honeywell gas valve on funace making noise

My home furnace has a Honeywell gas valve has a marking on the side ( model V800 A1070 ) It is making rapid ticking noises and when it stops, the burners will light up until the valve starts ticking again, then the burner goes out. what can I do? If I have to replace it, can it wait til morning or does it need immediate attention tonight? and what model number can I use to replace this one?

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Nexgrill patio heater won't stay lit

I called Nexgrill technical support at 1-800-913-8999. They are sending me a new thermo couple to keep the valve open when ignited - so the patio heater will stay on. I needed to give them the serial number (inside the propane tank door) and fax them a copy of the receipt.

Hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 18, 2008

  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: Coleman Presidential II mobile home

Is this furnace standing pilot or electronic ignition. If standing pilot i would check furnace filter then the thermastat. To test themostat first turn power off to furnace. Take thermostat off wall and take wires labled R & W and connect them together. If you have electronic ignition I would start with cleaning the flame sensor with steel wool or wire brush.If you have and more questions i will be glad to help.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE (Rheem) SmartWater SmartShield Sensor gas cut off

The click you hear is the gas valve shutting off flow. It does that because the thermocouple (a rod sticking into the flame of the pilot) voltage drops, usually below 13 millivolts or so. Might be a loose connection from thermo to valve body (should be finger tight plus 1/4 turn) or a bad thermo ($13 at Lowe's). Good Luck.

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: furnace howls when burner lights for 30 or so

Hi, the howling you describe is pretty common as gas heaters first come on. NG or LP gas is delivered at a pressure much higher than appliances actually use, step down regulators lower the pressure as the gas flows. So, when you first turn your heater on, the pressure is a little high until the flow causes an equalization of pressure. You could contact your gas supplier and ask them to check your pressure and tell them you suspect a building regulator. If the pressure were to build too high it could cause leaks or damage the appliance controls.  Good luck.

Posted on Jan 10, 2010

  • 415 Answers


Looks like an older system. Tighten all of your electrical connections. Inspect all of the low voltage wiring for any insulation cracks or other damage. The problem you describe sounds like something is either "shorting" or breaking down electrically. Unless the technician can catch it while he/she is there, it will be difficult to determine exactly what is happening. You might get lucky and resolve it yourself by tightening all electrical connections and reinsulating (use electrical tape) any damaged low voltage wire connections. If you continue to experience problems, get the tech. Hopefully the last company you used will be willing to work with you on the bill considering they were unable to "catch" it during the last visit.

Without being there with toolbox in hand, I hope you find this information very helpful moving forward. :-)

Posted on Mar 19, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for taking the time to answer my inquiry. I'll let you know how it works out."

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Ruud Silhouette II Gas Furnace, purges, lights

Flame sensor needs to be cleaned. turn off the furnace power switch or breaker. pull the flame sensor located in the burner runner section of the furnace. It will be easy to locate because it has 1 wire running to it. pull the screw being very careful not to harm anything else. get the sensor out. inspect it for cleanliness. clean the sensor with light grade sand paper gently. re-install the sensor plug the wire back on. restart your furnace and this should fix the problem.

Posted on Nov 19, 2010

Testimonial: "thanks cookhvacr, took 15 minutes and it seems to be back to normal operation."

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What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the ignitor does not energize (bad control, bad ignitor), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not lite (dirty pilot), the burner does not lite (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Most newer furnaces will have a diagnostic center or control built into the control module. You may be able to view it as it is running thru a small viewing port. Some models will require the removal of an access panel prior to finding it. On the reverse of the access panel, there will be a diagnostic chart that will aide you in understanding any error code recorded (usually a blinking light).

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If I had make and model number I should be able to find the part

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