- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The power connections sto the amplifier are too small. I have no idea how much power this amp draws, but if it is typical of most car amplifiers that put out 250 watts or more, you should run probably #6 wire for both the +12 and ground, and BOTH of them should run to the car battery. Put a fuse in the +12 line at the battery appropreate for the amplifier. If you go above 1200 watts, you should increase the wire size to #4 or #000. Also, check the connections for corrosion and clean them up if necessary.
Just to the left of the output (speaker) terminals, near the top of the amp, there's an LED marked "POWER/PROTECTOR". If the amp is connected properly and powered on, the LED is ON.
If the amp is being used for normal speakers, use a pair of RCA cables and connect the left/right channels to the appropriate inputs on the amp. The switch marked "LPF" should be "OFF".
If the amp is being used with the channels bridged for a subwoofer, use an RCA "Y" adapter and connect the single "Sub Out" preamp output from the head unit to both amp inputs. The switch marked "LPF" should be "ON" and the crossover set to about 80-100Hz.
Yes, keep in mind that the amps have a constant power (the large red wire) and need a remote signal to tell them when to turn on/off. This wire connect to a switched 12v from the ignition or radio blue wire (if aftermarket)
In Car Amplifiers have 3 main power wires: Live +12v (Fused wire direct from the + side of the cars battery)
Ground (Direct to car earthing point (anywhere cleaned of paint for good connection)(I tend to use boot lock)
Remote (This wire should be connected with the switched live wire coming from the back of the stereo, this is Only live when the cars ignition is on)(there should be 2 power wires coming from the stereo usuallyredlive +12v and yellowswitched live, depending on the cars original wiring, try moving the remote wire from where you have it, to the other live wire
Most likely one of your subs are blown, or the Ohm's are too low for the ampliphier. Try hooking up one speaker at a time to the amp and see if it does the same thing. If it shuts off on one of the two speakers, that speaker is most likely blown.