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Some units require both a start and a run capacitor. It's possible the wrong capacitor was replaced. It's also possible to add a run capacitor to a system to keep the fan running. There is an outside chance the bearings in the fan motor are worn to the point it's time to replace the motor.
1) If the OUTDOOR A/C Condensing Unit is running BUT the indoor AIR HANDLER is NOT running, the problem could be as easy as changing the RUN CAPACITOR which is usually located within very close proximity of your indoor air handler motor. Ensure the ELECTRICAL DISCONNECT SWITCH is "OFF" and change the oval run capacitor (usually a 5 microfarad capacitor). This SHOULD fix your problem.
2) If the OUTDOOR A/C Condensing Unit is NOT running BUT the indoor AIR HANDLER is running, the problem could be as easy as the outdoor unit is not receiving the required 220 Volts AC. Turn the circuit breaker for the A/C Unit OFF and then turn it back ON. Ensure the circuit breaker SNAPS when you turn it to the ON position.
3) If the previous two steps to not apply or do not work, go to the paperwork supplied with the Thermostat. Almost every manufacturer provided a TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE within their literature. Follow those steps. If their TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE does NOT fix your problem, they should have a TOLL-FREE TELEPHONE NUMBER provided to contact their TECHNICAL EXPERTS with your problem(s). Call them and ask them what could be causing the problem.
The fact is, the air handler supplies the voltage, blower, and electric heat. In order for the heat pump to work correctly, the wiring from the thermostat and heat pump need to be hooked up right to the air handler. The thermostat is what tells which component to come on. If the fan stops, but the condenser keeps going, you either have a faulty fan relay on the air handler, faulty thermostat or wiring, faulty wiring at the heat pump, or the contacts on the new unit are sticking, which is highly doubtful considering it is working now. I hope I have helped you understand this a little more. Good luck and don't let them push you around, get someone that knows what they are looking at.
II assume you mean the outside unit is running.
if so turn off your system immediately.
If no air is coming out of the registers, the blower motor in the air handler is not running and/or the system has froze up. Check to see if you have any ice on the large copper line coming out of your inside unit. There will be rubber insulation on it but just pull it back on the pipe right at the inside unit and you should be able to see ice.
Take the service panel off the air handler(inside unit) and turn fan on at the thermostat. There is an "on" and "auto" fan switch on the thermostat. Go back and look in the air handler and see if the fan is running .If it is then you have a refrigerant problem. If the fan is not running then it will be a run capacitor, bad motor, no 24 volt power to relay, bad relay, bad thermostat, bad board if fan relay is solid state, or a bad conductor from the thermostat.
Hope this helps.
You will probably have to get an a/c tech to troubleshoot either of the above problems more thoroughly to correct it permanently.
If the system is froze up and the fan is working then the system is low on refrigerant. This means the system has a leak. The leak will have to be found and repaired before the system is recharged or the refrigerant will just leak back out again.
Check your disconnect or breaker that is located close to the outside unit. Next you need to check the contactor in the outside unit. Set the thermostat to make the air come on then check the contactor. It should be pulled in closing the contacts. If it isn't the problem could be the contactor or thermostat. Next check the voltage on the load side with it pulled in. If that's good then check the capacitor. If it looks swollen, it's bad. You can also use a multimeter with the capacitor check function to do this. Let me know what you find.
O energizes the reversing valve when the thermostat is set for COOL. B energizes the reversing valve when the thermostat is set for HEAT. The O/B is usually a orange or black wire. You can't hurt anything if you choose O or B incorrectly. Hook one of them up and run the unit. If set for COOL and the unit runs cool inside it is correct. If set for COOL and the unit runs warm inside it is not correct. If the inside temp is opposite from your setting change the wire to the other terminal. Remember to disconnect power from the air handler when changing thermostat wires. The defrost control board on the outside unit should be marked correctly for O or B. Your thermostat may have a slide switch rather than a separate terminal.