Question about Wharfedale Modus One-Six Speaker

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Wharfedale Modus One

Tweeters are not functioning on both of my speakers.. haven't attempted to disassemble yet.. located replacement NEW tweeters directly from Wharfedale, but before I purchase them.. wondering if its more likely that my crossovers are blown and how can I test that.. I assume I can just provide a signal to the tweeters to determine if the speakers are operational. Any direction or advice appreciated. Thanks JOHN

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The tweeters are probably blown, i had the same problem.
You can test this by placing the cable on the dismanteled crossover at the back of the speaker. colour blue/yellow.
No high volume please.
See http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-speakers/4549-wharfedale-modus-one-six-crossover-pics.html
for pictures.
If the tweeter is blown it can be dismanteld with the aid of a screwdriver, horizontally.
Place it between the tweeterbowl and the ring which has the mark wharfedale on it. The tweeter comes loose. On second hand sites you can buy little speakers, like modus one or two's with the same tweeters for a good price and put them on your larger speakers.

This how i repaired 2 of my 4 modus eights.

good luck Danny Mol
the netherlands

Posted on Mar 11, 2008

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I recently lost my tweeter on Modus One Six. During hi power play back, I hear occasional clicks and pops. I emailed the manufacture and got no response from IAG nor Wharfedale UK. So I managed to fix it myself. After switching the tweeters to the working speaker (turn the tweeter housing to align with wharfedale signature and insert a flat head screw driver with cloth wrapped around its head and pop it slowly.), I was able to determine the tweeter itself is not broken, so that leaves us the cross overs.

Modus One Six has the crossover right behind the back plate terminals. unscrew 4 wood crews, and there you have it.

the tweeter uses 335K/100V capacitor and 3 watt/1 Ohm resistor.

335K is EIA Coding The EIA code works on a very similar principle to the resistor colour code. The first two digits refer to the value with the third being the multiplier. The fourth character represents the tolerance.
When the EIA code is used, the value will always be in Pico-Farads (see Decimal Multipliers).

Example 103K
This expands to:
1 = 1
0 = 0
3 = x 1,000
K = 10% (sec Capacitor Tolerance for listings)
Then we combine these numbers together:
1 0 x 1 000 = 10 000pF = 0.01µF, = 10n ±10% tolerance

Example 335K
This expands to:
3 = 3
3 = 3
E = x100,000
K = ±10%
Then we combine these numbers together
3 3 x100,000 = 3,300,000pF = 3,300nF = 3.3uF 10% tolerance.

so 3.3MFD(micro Farad)/ 100v elctrolytic, non-polarized capitor is what we need for the tweeter. That is 0.49 USD component in local Frys electronics.

The NTE brand capacitor appears a lot smaller compare to the original (see photo)
Cut off the original 335K 100V yellow capacitor and re-solder the new replacement, and voila!!

I get my sweet crisp tweeter sound back. pop in a "Lucia di Lammermoor" opera CD , and I am right back home!

Wharfedale Modus One - ee7fc63.jpg
934551c.jpg
edcd320.jpg

Posted on Oct 23, 2009

  • WeCan ManCan Dec 15, 2014

    The photo shows a yellow normal capacitor but the replacement used is an Electrolytic Radial ?

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I have the same problem

Posted on Feb 28, 2008

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I tried this and it didn't work. I wonder if I need to replace other components in the corssover.

Posted on Apr 06, 2016

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