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Intertherm funace limit switch controls the heater coil

What want is to be able to find a replacement part , keep in mind this heater is for mobile home which is atleast 20 years old

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Re: intertherm funace limit switch controls the heater...

Take the part into a heating and cooling repair business and have them order that part. You will also need to have the model number and brand of the furnace you have. I'm sure they will order one for you.

Posted on Jan 26, 2008

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High limit safety device is probably tripped, it should reset automatically, also check other safety's for tripped condition, they look like small round device located in a variety locations through out the unit with two wires to each one, some have small push button resets located in the burner compartment area. If all the safety's are reset and check out OK the main control board may need replaced. One of the most common causes of high limit safety device trip is lack of air flow, Dirty filters, evaporator coils, malfunctioning blowers, closed supply air registers etc.
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I have an Intertherm electric furnace in my mobile home model # FEHB 015A. The heater started acting up by first blowing warm air like normal but then blowing cool, not heated air after a few minutes of...
The diagrams above may not be exactly what you are needing. But they will be close. Usually the diagram for the furnace is on the inside of the blower fan door. Two things come to mind. It seems like your limit switch(s) are cutting out, then in, then out, etc and may have failed totally. These are in the system to prevent the temperature in the furnace from getting too high. Why they are cutting in and out may be due to the lack of sufficient air passing through the furnace. This can be caused by, 1. the fan speed is too slow, or 2. the air filter is needing to be changed. I am not sure how proficient you are with electrical troubleshooting. I would (turn off all power to furnace) find the limit switches (usually at the top of the heating elements) and check to see (with an ohm meter) if the switches are allowing the meter's current to flow through them. Your meter should read near zero, if not, then I would replace the switch with an exact one. If you are proficient with electrical troubleshooting, I would place the furnace in the "call for heat" position, with the power on, (be careful, this stuff can hurt) and I would see if I have voltage at the heating elements, and I would check with my voltmeter across the two leads on each limit switch if there is voltage present. If there is voltage present, then the switch is probably ****.
Depending on the furnace you have, you might have a number of switches that control the heating elements, these units are usually time delay and if they fail, you should replace them with the same delay time. I hope this helps.

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Sounds like you took a hit from a capacitor. That is the only thing that could Zap you if you are sure all power is off. Usually capacitors hold a charge if their is no resistor/ bleeder on it. Find your capacitor(s) round or oval with wires coming off the top. DISCONECT POWER TO UNIT. Short across the terminals on all capacitors with a screw driver to release charge. Do not touch metal part of screw driver while doing this. Then remove your wires form your limit with insulated insulated needle nose pliers.

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