Question about Jenn-Air SVE47100 Slide-In Electric Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Replaced lower element after short

Still doesn't work. One of the questions on your website indicated that the owner replaced the high limit switch. How is the high limit switch removed? Is it unscrewed? Or pried out?

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  • Jerry Goggins Jan 15, 2008

    Model SVE 47500B; S/N 02452563QS

  • Jerry Goggins Jan 15, 2008

    I called Jenn-Air customer service this morning, only to find that they don't do troubleshooting on the phone. They suggested that I call the local Jenn-Air dealer for service assistance.

  • Jerry Goggins Jan 16, 2008

    Hi, Mike:
    I pulled the stove out and checked the voltages as you've suggested. They all check out, i.e., 240V across L12 and L2 and 120V across L1 and neutral and L2 and neutral. However, the smaller circuit board (or relay board, as you've described it) has obvious burn marks on it so it's probably cooked. I'm trying to get Jenn-Air on the phone but I'm getting a busy signal. I'll let you know how it sorts out, once I secure a replacement board.
    Thanks, Jerry

  • Jerry Goggins Jan 17, 2008

    I was able to order the board from Jenn-Air, which was shipped on Wednesday from St. Louis. It should be here on Friday because I live just outside of Milwaukee, WI. I'll let you know if that fixes the problem.

    I'm pretty confident that the new board will fix the problem; it's very obviously burned, with several wires broken on the board itself.

  • Jerry Goggins Jan 19, 2008

    I replaced the smaller board (fan control)because it was obviously burned. Everything works now (the fan, burners, broiler element) except the oven element. I don't get any voltage when I check the wires to the oven element, so it's obvious that there is something else wrong. Could one of the relays on the main board be bad? If so, can they be replaced?
    The main board is almost certainly several hundred dollars, so I'll replace the range before I spend that much money.
    Please get back to me when you get a chance. Thanks for all of your help so far.
    Jerry

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Call Jenn air customer support. They will be sure to help you. :)

Jenn-Air Customer Service representatives are available by phone Mon - Fri from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. (Local Market Time) and Sat from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Local Market Time). For questions about your Jenn-Air appliance, please locate the appliance's model and serial number before calling: Jenn-Air Customer Service 1-800-Jenn-Air

Posted on Jan 14, 2008

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They are generally mounted to the rear of the oven with screws. Not all ovens have them. Please post the complete model number from the range and I will try to help you find the problem.
Thanks/mike

Posted on Jan 14, 2008

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  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Jan 15, 2008

    Thanks for the model and serial numbers.

    The Hi-limit switch is in line between the L1 terminal on the power block and the bake and broil elements. If the broil element works, the limit switch is ok.

    You will need to pull the stove out and remove the back panel.

    You will see the terminal block that connects your house wiring to the stove. There should be some black wires coming off one terminal. This is your L1 terminal. There will be a terminal with a red wire. This is your L2. The terminal in the center with white wires is the neutral.

    You should have 240 volts checking across L1 and L2. You should have 120v across L1 and neutral, and 120v across L2 and neutral.

    Power comes off the L1 terminal to the Hi-Limit switch, from the Hi-limit it goes to the oven elements.

    If the broil element works, then you know the Hi-limit is ok and you know the L1 power is ok.

    If the broil works but the bake does not, you either have a burned wire or there is a problem with the control board or relay board.

    The relay board supplies the L2 voltage to the elements when you select bake or broil.

    Check these voltages and post back with what you find.

    Thanks/Mike

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Jan 17, 2008

    Jerry,

    It probably needs replacing if you see burned spots.

    If you don't have a wiring diagram to help you trace down the wires, go to sears.com, click on parts, and enter your model number. You can click on the diagram under wiring information and then you can tell what wires go where and which board you need. There are 2 boards on the back of your stove I think. One is the main relay board that controls the oven and one is the fan control board. I find it easier to read the diagram if I save it to my computer so that I can control the size on the screen a little better. You can also look up your parts and order them from the sears site, but you may want to check prices different places.

    Mike

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Jan 17, 2008

    Sorry it was so late getting back to you. It was a long day and I didn't get in from work until late. Just logged on the computer at 10:30 cst.

    Mike

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Jan 21, 2008

    The main relay board controls the bake, broil, and convection features. If you have no power from the relay board to the bake element, then you will have to replace the board. It costs around $250.

    Thanks/Mike

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Dryer runs but doesn't heat.


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I'm getting hot water for 2 minutes , then it gets cold


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The top thermostat usually has a high limit switch that will trip if the water gets too hot. When it trips it shuts off the electricity to both the upper and lower heating elements.

To reset the high limit switch there is usually a red button that you must press. When the upper limit switch trips it is often an indication that something else has gone wrong with the heater.


When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
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Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

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Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
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Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

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