Need a replacement part

they are not repairable. Ensure that you have power at the pump receptacle. Your power should be on a GFCI circuit either breaker of receptacle. try resetting GFCI. If that does not work call electrician. Personally I would replace pump, they are an inexpensive pump. $24.00 on amazon

there is no reset

You will have to look in places like lowes, rona , home depot . Home hardware . Or garden centers . Or look on some off the makes of hose attachments wed sites

the hose connections should be 1/2 : NTP thread ( normal 1/2 tap and garden hose fittings ) the inlet hose comes from a pressure source so it will be a screw on fitting at each end
Y fittings are available from a hardware shop if you want to run hot water as well as cold but some machines heat their own water to near boiling for better hygiene and drying of dishes
next the same screw on fitting ( as on a tap)) should fit on the pump outlet
as the pump discharge is low pressure the fitting can have a hose tail ( plain piece with a barb at the end that the hose pushes over)with the hose pushed on and held in place with a hose clamp
the same for the other end but the tail should be part of the sink drain ( all fittings can be from a hardware shop in the garden hose section) S bend so push it on there , again with a hose clamp
check the size as the pump fitting may be 3/4 not 1/2 inch as drain hoses can be larger , but the principle of fitting is the same

Disconnect the top radiator hose at the radiator, plug the hole in the radiator where the hose attaches, and put a garden hose in the radiator to keep it full of water.
Start the engine, and if the water pump is working, the water & coolant will pour out of the top hose.
Remember, the thermostat must already be open, or it will not flow until the thermostat gets hot enough to open.
(Or, if the pump is leaking whilst the car is running, or if the pump is "screaming" whilst the engine is running.)

I have the same unit and replaced the pump a few months ago. I took the pictures below as I did it.

First, unplug the unit and remove the water tank. Now go to the back and remove the six screws:




Now slide the side panels toward the back of the unit until you can pull them away from the sides:




Here's the view from the back:



The pump is on the right with the green and white label on the side. It looks like this:



Now disconnect the 3 hoses going to the pump and the 2 wires. Again, the unit needs to be unplugged as the pump uses 120VAC.







The hoses are attached in three different ways on mine. One has a simple clamp you remove with pliers, one uses a cotter-pin that you pull out with pliers, and the bottom hose is just a friction fit. It is pretty obvious but of course keep track of what goes where.

The wires might require a bit of pulling so be careful.

The only thing tricky I can recall is that the top fitting of the pump (where the top 2 hoses are attached) is screwed on to the pump so after the hoses are removed you can gently unscrew it from the pump.

If it were mine, I'd remove the top radiator hose from the radiator, and use a garden hose for an extension to it, and then have another garden hose ready to keep the radiator filled to the top with water.
You will also need to plug the connection where the radiator hose was taken off.
Take the thermostat out, it is often in the housing where the lower radiator hose attaches to the engine block.
Put the housing back on without thermostat.
Now, start the engine.
The water pump should pump a lot of water out of the garden hose, as it tries to go to the top of the radiator. Be sure to keep the radiator full as you do this.
Be blessed.

The drain hose is plugged or kinked or the drain pump is not working. Check and clear the drain hose from any debris that might be causing the water not to be pumped out. After checking and clearing the drain hose and the water is still not pumped out of the washer, check the pump to see if the impeller is good or the pump needs to be replaced. Access to the pump requires the top cover and the front panel to be removed. Disconnect power to the washer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

The top cover is attached to the front panel by two clips positioned at about 3 inches from the corners. Use a putty knife and insert the blade into the seam between the top cover and the front panel assembly at the position of the clips.

Push the putty knife blade against the clips, one side at a time while lifting the cover to disengage the clips. Lift the top cover off the front panel then remove the two screws securing the front panel to the upper front corner braces of the cabinet.

Lean the top edge of the front panel away from the cabinet and lift the panel to disengage its bottom from the base clips. Move the front panel away from the cabinet to access the pump.

Disconnect the pump inlet and outlet hoses from the pump then remove the three screws mounting the pump assembly to the base of the washer.

Slide the pump to the rear of the washer to disengage the belt from the pump pulley and pull the pump assembly out of the washer.

Clear the pump inlet and outlet hoses for any debris to ensure water is not blocked from being pumped out of the washer.

Check the impeller. Remove the four screws securing the pump housing to the pump base then lift the housing off the base. Clean the impeller and the pump housing; replace the pump assembly if the impeller is damaged.

To replace the pump, set the pump pulley into the base opening and put the belt on the pulley. Install the mounting screws while holding tension on the belt to keep it on the pulleys.

Connect the pump inlet and outlet hoses and secure it with the clamps.

Position the bottom of the front panel back into the base clips then secure the top to the upper front corner braces of the cabinet with the two securing screws.

Push the top cover down into position to the front panel to complete the procedure.

Note: For Maytag Atlantis MAV8000A, the pump assembly is part number 35-6465.

You can either replace it with another 2"male hose adapter or just replace it with 2"diameter GI pipe nipple x 4"length and hose clamp for 2" diameter.pipe. Just send your e-mail should you need further assistance.

We have the same pump and problems. I have attempted a few fixes with PVC sealant and hose clamps to the current adaptor, however the adapter is still continuing to crack. The adapter is removable- carefully so as to not damage the small eyelet it attaches to, (or in our case, it came off on it's own) and can be replaced by any adapter that fits- they can be found all over at lowes or home depot. I am personally going to try using a broken hose and clamping it directly to the eyelet. This is not a good reason to buy a new pump- they fix too easy!