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GE WNSR4100 Washer won't spin

The other day the washer was in the middle of the wash cycle and it stopped. It would not spin the water out. Now all it does is make a loud humming sound and vibrates with no movement of the tub. Is this likely the clutch or drive belt? The washer is 8 years old. Is it worth fixing?

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SOURCE: GE Washer Spin Cycle Problem

gnarly, do you have the updated motor, harness and start cap? If it goes into spin and does this chunk a chunka chunka bit. Take a meter to the white and white/red wire going to the motor. If you have a steady 120V, replace the motor with the new kit. What the motor is doing is jogging between high to low speed. back.

Posted on Oct 18, 2006

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Posted on Nov 17, 2007

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SOURCE: Washing machine won't spin or agitate

It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.

  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.

  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on May 29, 2008

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Spin Cycle on Wash Machine does not work

The problem is your lid switch. This is a common problem with this model washer, and a very simple & inexpensive problem to fix. Click on the following link for advice on how to replace:

You can find a replacment switch at Just type in your model number and look under the "Cabinet Parts" heading on the next page. I believe thats the heading the part is listed under. Sears has excellent part locator drawings to assist you in identifying the part. Once you have the part number identified, you can do some comparative shopping at other online websites too. Use the part number that Sears provides, however. A new switch usually runs about $25 to $35. In addition, make sure you check the lid strike. This is a small plastic piece on the lid that is used to activate the lid switch through a small slot. If the lid strike is broken off, it will give the same symptoms of a defective lid switch. I hope this information helps you. Please post back if you have any questions.

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

  • 188 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore front-load washer stops at rinse cycle

When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Good luck!

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

  • 28 Answers

SOURCE: GE washer does not agitate or spin

There is a fusable link that is known to blow. The replacement is available. Open the front access panel, Remove the tape from the wires that are taped together near the top of the wiring harness,about 3/4 of the way up. You will see a wire that is covered with shrink wrap (White with Red stripe I think) Cut it out, check for open circuit with an ohm meter. If it is open, (no continuity) Replace it. I used a regular piece of wire as a jumper for testing till I got the new fuse. The fuse kit I got comes with 2 of these fusable links. One is for a spare.

Posted on Dec 05, 2009

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