- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Sub-Woofer pre out is for connecting that terminal to the input terminal of any sub-woofer. The sub woofer which it should be connected must be an active type [that is, there must be independent amplifier section built it with that sub-woofer; not mearly a crossover network].
What
is the difference between bi-wiring and bi-amping?
Bi-wiring is using the same power source (amplifier) but
separately
connecting that power source to a woofer and a
midrange/tweeter on a
speaker.
Bi-amping is using two separate power sources (amplifiers)
and
connecting one amplifier to a woofer and the other amplifier
to a
midrange/tweeter on a speaker.
How do I bi-wire?
Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative
connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the
midrange/tweeter). Connect one wire between the positive
terminal on
the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker.
Connect
the other wire from the negative terminal on the
amplifier/receiver
to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker.
Remove the
jumper straps connecting the two sets of speaker inputs.
Repeat this
process for the second set of terminals on the speaker,
connecting
them to the same positive and negative terminals on the
receiver/amplifier. Repeat the steps for each speaker you
wish to
Bi-Wire, connecting them to the appropriate terminals on
your
receiver/amplifier.
How do I bi-amp? Bi-amping is similar to bi-wiring, but involves
separate
amplifiers: one for the woofer and one for the
midrange/tweeter.
Passive bi-amping involves a direct hookup between each
amplifier
and the speaker terminals. True bi-amping involves hooking
the
preamp to an electronic crossover that replaces the passive
crossover network in the speaker. The active crossover then
connects
to multiple power amplifiers.
FIRST OF ALL --- THERE IS A FEW THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE HOOKING UP A WOOFER LIKE THIS ---- IS THIS A STORE BOUGHT POWERED SUB WOOFER ? DOES IT HAVE IT'S OWN CROSSOVER BUILT INSIDE ?? I WOULD GUESS IT NEEDS TO BE HOOKED UP TO A SUB WOOFER OUTPUT FOUND ON THE BACK OF THE IN DASH PLAYER .. THE WOOFER NEEDS TO RECEIVE ONLY LOW FREQUENCY AUDIO WHICH MOST OF THE NEWER CAR STEREOS PROVIDE BY AN RCA JACK ON A SHORT WIRE COMING OUT OF THE STEREO ... IF YOU TRY AND TAP IT TO FULL RANGE SPEAKERS THAT ALREADY ARE CONNECTED TO AN AMPLIFIED SIGNAL THE SOUND WILL BE DISTORTED ....... POWERED SUB WOOFERS NEED A LINE LEVEL INPUT WHICH IS MUCH LOWER THAN SAY SPEAKERS ALREADY RECEIVING AN AMPLIFIED SIGNAL. POWERED WOOFER WILL ALSO NEED TO HAVE A 12 VOLT ELECTRICAL CONNECTION AND A GROUND WIRE TO OPERATE THE AMPLIFIER BUILT INSIDE. IF YOU HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH THIS TYPE OF HOOK UP I WOULD STRONGLY RECOMMEND SOMEONE WHO DOES [ CAR AUDIO SHOP ]
Most schematics won't even have any colors listed... so let us have you try this:
Find a system ground someplace like the sleeve of a 1/4 inch jack... Using an ohmmeter check for continuity to the available wires that are disconnected. ASSUME that those showing a low resistance will go to the "-" terminals of the drivers. If you have say a black and red... expect that the black will be one of the grounds... often the red then will be the (+) of the woofer. If you have whites and yellow... OFten the white will also have continuity to ground and be the (-) for the tweeter and the yellow then to the (+). Now since your speaker has 4 woofers we need to be careful to wire then correctly to get the 4 ohm impedance of the cab. IF each woofer is 4 ohms impedance, then we need to wire them in series-parallel. The shell of input 1.4 inch jack will likely go to black wires... two of the speakers will have their (-) terminals connected to these. The tip of the 1/4 inch jack will probably connect to one or more red wires. These will connect to the (+) terminals of the OTHER TWO woofers. Next one of the available (-) with no connections will tie to the (+) terminal of one of the first two woofers. SImilarly the remaining (-) terminal of one of the woofers will tie to the last (+) terminal that is vacant. Note the + of the horn will tie probably to the High level pot and this will tie to the crossover someway.
Here is a site with general schematics.
You will need an amplifier or 2 channel receiver. Hook the sub out rca jack to the rca inputs on this new amp or receiver and hook the speaker terminals on sub to speaker terminals on same amp or receiver. Your Yamaha receiver doesn't have any power for a passive sub.Just pick up any old fairly high powered receiver for fifty dollars and you're good to go.I use old dolby pro logic receivers as they are a dime a dozen today. Good luck.
test with a digital multimeter set to ohms. if you don't have one of those laying around grab a 9 volt battery and run wires from the 2 terminals on the battery to 2 of the terminals on the woofer. if the woofer pops out you are said to be "in phase" (even though it has more to do with polarity that phasing but regardless) which means the positive from the battery is on the positive of the woofer and the negative is to the negative. those 2 terminals on the woofer are a single coil and obviously the other 2 terminals are the 2nd coil. now depending on what impedance each coil is will determine how you have to wire it to be 4 ohms unless they are 4 ohm coils which means you just use one coil and it will be 4 ohms on that woofer.
There is an old cheap way to test any speaker. If you have a multi-meter, set it on OHMS. Then, while holding one lead against one speaker terminal, tap the other meter lead to the other speaker terminal. If the speaker is good, you will hear faint crackles. If you do not have a meter do not despair, you can do the same test using an AA or AAA battery with leads held to the battery.
Good luck! P.S. Nice speakers.
If you can get the same woofers, then yes you should be OK, pull the units, get the part number off the back and then try Google for a source. If you can't find a exact replacement then you are looking at replacing all of the woofers, rule of thumb is that you do not want to mix speakers, you end up having one speaker sounding different than the other, so what ever you do to one, you need to do to the other. In that way what tonal changes that happen will happen to both speakers and they remain matched.
Now if you need to find replacements, you need to replace with like impedance speakers, and try to find a speaker very similar to what you are replacing. Just don't throw anything in the cabinet, if the impedance isn't correct not only the sound could be bad, but you could also damage your Amp or Receiver.
hi, to test the woofer , u take a 1.5 v battery, put one end of the +ev on one terminal and tap the -ev on the other and notice if u can hear a clicking sound as u tap, if not than the speaker/woofer coil or the cross over curcit is open, let me know,
Hi, probably two things that can go dead, 1) the woofer itself and/or 2) the amplifier. I will rule out poser supply cos the other speakers are working. Normally they have a separate amplifier than that of the woofer.
If you are comfortable working with a soldering iron and a multi tester, after unplugging from the mains, then you open the enclosure and check the continuity of woofer which should read between 4-8 ohms, if it is open or no reading, replace just 2 wires/terminals involve with 3 or 4 screws. If the woofer reads a continuity, then it is the amp which normally is just a single power IC attached to an aluminum heatsink. In some instances, it may be a power transistor pair. In any case you have to be familiar with component level repair. Otherwise, you are probably better off asking a qualified service personnel to do the repair job.
Hope this be of some help. Pls post how things turn up. Regards.
×