HI I have been using a battery grip but if I takethe grip off

please be specific, which battery... there are two. The battery pack and the small button battery for the CMOS. The CMOS battery is usually under the harddrive. HDD just pull out, most of the time you needn't unplug them to get t the CMOS button battery.

No--but.... Heated grips will only put an added load on a battery, and that won't cause boiling of a battery. What WILL cause a battery to boil is overcharging or charging at too fast a rate. Now, then--when you add heated grips to the bike and you make a mistake somewhere in the wiring, you can affect the charging rate, and it's possible that a voltage regulator/charging system sees more current being drawn than it's used to and it's trying to replace that current as well as charge the battery, and it's feeding a higher voltage/current to the battery than was intended by the designers. You can check this out--put a voltmeter on the battery terminals, run the engine, and turn on your heated grips. A normal charging voltage for a vented lead acid battery should be about 13.8 to 14.4 volts; yours may go a little higher. If you're seeing a lot higher than 14.4 volts, you either have a defective voltage regulator or perhaps such a bad battery that it's screwing up your charging circuit.

Most definitely battery grip. Prone to a phenomenon know as 'flexing'. The contacts on the grip fail to connect to camera's contacts. Can cause other problems such as switching on and off when you least expect it. I got sick of going thru about two grips for every camera so went with 1D/1Ds series. You'll hear people say 'stick with Canon grips' blahhh(!) too ****** expensive and are prone to the same problem. Can't be helped when you hand hold a camera+grip for long periods - the warmth of your hands can heat up (warp) the plastics and it's all held 'together' by one little screw in a tripod mount (!)
You could 'try' removing the grip, leave it off for say a week. I don't know why it's how, but if always works like new when you put it on again. Until....it starts playing up again. :)
OEM, 3RD party... OTY. For the price of one Canon I could get two cheapies. Always had the 1D (classic) and ahem...still have it! So I stuck with the series (1D IV, 1Ds2) Still holding onto my 7D w/grip (3rd party) though.

First of all, Nikon doesn't make a battery grip for the D60 so I'm going to assume you mean any of the available third-party grips.

The grip fits into the battery compartment, replacing the battery, and attaches to the bottom of the camera, screwing into the tripod socket. It can hold two battery packs, doubling the battery capacity. Some grips also let you use AA batteries instead of the normal Li-ion battery packs. It also has a tripod socket of its own, so you can still mount your camera on a tripod.

Some people also find it more comfortable when turning the camera to shoot in portrait orientation. The grip gives you another shutter release button and some of the other controls so you still hold the camera with your hands in more-or-less the same position whether you shoot in landscape or portrait.

Of course, there is a cost for all this. The grip adds significantly to the bulk and weight of the camera.

This is an old post but if you haven't found your solution yet here is the solution.
The Fuji FinePix S2 Pro uses two sets of batteries one set located in the camera body grip and another set in the battery grip itself. If you are experiencing the problem you are then the batteries in the camera body are dead and need replacement. here is a diagram. Replacing the batteries in the camera body require removing the grip.
Diagram

I FOUND IT IS STATED IN MANUAL FOR SONY A700 BATTERY GRIP.
REMOVE TRAY THAT HOLDS BATTERIES . REPLACE IN GRIP.
BUT THIS DID NOT WORK.
ONE BATTERY HAD NO CHARGE, THIS I FOUND CAUSED THE PROBLEM FOR ME. HAVE SINCE CHARGED BOTH BATTERIES AND PUT BACK IN GRIP,SEEMS TO HAVE SOLVED IT...... OR
USE JUST THE ONE BATTERY THAT WAS CHARGED.
THIS PROBLEM THAT I HAVE HAD IS NOT LISTED IN MANUAL.
BUT NOW THAT I KNOW OF IT I WILL KNOW HOW TO SORT IT
OUT .THIS MAY HELP SOMEBODY ELSE ONE DAY SHOULD IT HAPPEN.

THANKS ANYWAY

YOURS TRUELY,

HENRY NEILL

There is a button for the battery cover release on the bottom of the mouse. Slide the wireless usb adapter out and the button should be there.

ni-cad or ni-mh rechargeable batteries all have charging cycle life and will fall in effeciency. in saying that, batteries used for some time will be not be as powerful as the new ones, and over or under charged batteries also wouldn't give you expected power.

i guess the CR123A you replaced is a new one, so it has the desirable voltage and current.

LCD itself and the driver actually do not require a lot of power, but the camera does, which draws away from the battery.

pc-cook

i have yet to recieve the b-grip for my *ist so i can't tell you if i have the same problem. i do have a thought on the matter and an interest in the fix as i have a grip on order. have either or both of you upgraded to firmware 1.1? that is not listed as something the firmware update remedies. however, i understand that manufacturers often include fixes for less conspicious problems without listing them. if you haven't upgraded it's worth a shot, you have nothing to loose as long as you use FRESH batteries. hope i helped. have fun shooting.