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wow first post ever posting country ,what a brave person. !!!!
welcome to USA forums ,that have no such car.(truck)
the line up. (wiki list) so its 3.0L 4JX1
stalls and lost power.
The 4JX1 is a 3.0L direct injection diesel engine, turbo, some intercooled, which replaced the 4JG2 in the Isuzu Bighorn/Trooper/Holden Jackaroo. It uses unit injectors and 4 valves per cylinder.
can be caused by many reasons. get it scanned yet. ?
or see FSM book on flash codes from the direct injection fuel
controller? (per this engine option and market)
does turbo have proper boost? (PSI boost or +1 bar boost?)
does it even have a boost gauge.?
there are over 50 causes, of stalls (most inside engine)
but its not getting boost or the injection rates are wrong.
there are basic tests for each covered in the FSM
Factory (oem) service manual, with coverage for this engine.
we dont have Jackaroo here in USA. sorry! we are USA forum no Holden's here, ever) you in Australia? NO actual V6 stated, which one of the 3? size v6 and , cam count per head, and fueling system there. NO photo of engine posted, and bam , there it is and fueling parts, all clear as DAY to me. it's a no start. the fuel feed line goes to the pump, why not just look at this line see where it goes? no? cam belt fresh, spark plugs fresh? fuses good,
most are in the tank, but not so on all carb engines sold world wide.
lacking what engine is there, and what fueling system , why post to USA forum >? all you will get is, wild guessing. wrong answers. and OFF TRACK . or like I do, generic MR. OTTO CYCLE Gas engine answers (pure physics) if all want is wild guessing, you are on the perfect forum for that.
why not use 0Z forums after all only they have HOLDENS (this type)
I believe the 3.2 is a Honda/Acura engine and not a Isuzu engine. Are you talking about changing the engine oil or the transmission fluid? I ask because you state "the oil drainage plug" but later you mention the Automatic transmission. As for engine oil plugs, they are almost always found low on the engine oil pan, sometimes facing the front (like my Jag), to the side (like my Ford Ranger) or to the rear like my 90 Acura Legend 2.7L V6 did. Most have a bolt with a washer that should be replaced every time. If it doesn't look like a large hexagonal bolt head it could very well be a rubber plug that is pushed in. Not a good design in my humble opinion. If you change the oil be careful not to do it when the engine is hot as the oil is also quite hot. I believe in doing it when just warm, more drains out. I find it beneficial to drain about a quart out, put the drain plug back in and add a quart of Gunk or Snap engine oil slush, start it (but don't rev the engine & DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE) and let it just idle for 15 minutes. Give it some time to cool then remove the drain plug and let it drain out. Next remove the oil filter. Always ALWAYS pour fresh oil into the new filter a couple of times before screwing it on, and spread a little oil on the little rubber gasket on the filter first. I recommend synthetic oil for any vehicle as it doesn't break down into coke (hard rock-like black stuff) like conventional oil does. Those coke deposits are engine killers. I like Mobile 1 extended fuel economy. Synthetic costs more but lasts longer. If using synthetic were to only extend the life of your engine by two or three years, I consider it well worth the added expense. It should reduce wear in the engine, keep it much cleaner, make it quieter, and give you better mileage because it's slicker (less internal friction).
if its diesel 4JX1 its in top cam belt cover cant miss it, sensor is very clearly visible.
if its petrol V6 (6VD1 or 6VE1) its in left head at rear behind inlet manifold
these pictures are for petrol V6, Jackaroo(Trooper) and Holden Rodeo are the same.
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