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Failed lid switch on Maytag washing machine

I have a Maytag model #MAV6057AWW and I believe the lid switch has failed. I have removed the lid switch but I have no way of knowing if the switch is indeed bad and do not own any type of continuity tester but was wanting to use jumper wires on the plug from the wiring harness to the switch to bypass the switch. There are four labeled contact: Neutral; Line; Motor; Machine, on the switch contact (male side of plug). What would I jump on the corresponding side of the female side of (wiring harness) to safely bypass this switch.

The reason I believe it is the lid switch is because the machine failed to operate immediately after the lid being dropped closed.

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6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 196 Answers

SOURCE: installing washing machine motor P/N 35-5022, need wiring schematic to hook up to machine internals

The black or brown connection block on the motor should be color coded to match the harness. If not you will need to remove the control panel and find the service guide sheet. This will give you the wiring diagram for the whole machine.

Posted on Jan 13, 2008

  • 177 Answers

SOURCE: installing washing machine motor P/N 35-5022, need wiring schematic to hook up to machine internals

Is there a white or black connector that clips on the motor switch? it should be an easy unplug and plug the new motor in.

I dont of any Manufacturer that uses single wire connectors any more.

Are you sure you got the correct motor?

Posted on May 28, 2008

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore washer

the switch can be bypassed BUT if you do be careful it is after all a safety device to prtect those who "know no better than stick their hand in a wash tub spinning over 700 rpm" the switch may be on the left side just behind left lid hinge on some it was even under right side and others on right edge of lid opening either the screw holes are broke off or lever is not pressing in to activate switch..1 other thing ck screws in hinges if left side is loose have seen it fail to engage switch lever

Posted on Aug 07, 2008

  • 261 Answers

SOURCE: GE Washing Machine Replacement Motor - Capacitor? Relay? Schematic?

The new units have all of your schematics, capacitor and a higher price for a reason. With GE I avoid used parts because there is so much electronics you don't want to fry. The wire harness leads match the old and there should not be an extra wire, were would it go if there is not a receptacle for it?
I looked up your unit and the motor replacement is WH20X10009 for the model you quoted. As of now GE is has updated this to model wh20x10006 for around 263 dollars.

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Top loading washing machne F4 error. (110.20052994)

It spins, but doesn't pumpIf your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 

It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. 

If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

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