Question about Beam Industries 2775 Serenity Plus Central System Vacuum

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Motor won't turn on

The green LED is on. The reset breaker is pushed in. I can hear the relay click when I short the leads on the unit and again when I break the circuit. It also clicks when a hose is inserted into one of the inlets. The manual switch does not make the motor turn on either. I hear no hum (presumably no frozen motor). The unit does not stink (no electrical short presumably). The cannister was half way full when I discovered it wasn't working.

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Re: motor won't turn on

It sounds like you have a motor problem there. I don't know how old your machine is, but if it is still under warranty, don't explore any further as you will void your warranty. This problem sounds like a carbon brush problem and you will not be able to address it yourself unless you know your way around an electrical motor. The carbon brushes can stick or become jammed and once they are loosened up, they need to be reseated or the motor will burn out. You will not be able to do this yourself. These motors generally have 5 to 12 year warranties and yours may still be under warranty. If your machine is over 10 years old, the carbs are probably worn out and the motor will require repair or replacement. You should refer to a competent tech for help.

Posted on Jan 13, 2008

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From the description it sounds as if there had to be a short in the unit somewhere. This is what would have tripped the breaker. the fact that it is not tripping could mean that there is a fusible link or that the wires or whatever have burned back from the short, and are no longer shorting out.

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Hi, when the breaker trips every time you turn it on, the unit has a dead short. It may have a frayed wire where it goes into the units motor, or the motor it self may be shorted out.A bare hot wire that touches metal will pop the breaker right away. I would look the cord over very well to see if anything may be bare. If not, the problem is further into the motor section of the unit, and more then likely the motor has failed. This is why the breaker is there for this reason. In case it overloads or you have a short, it trips to keep the unit from burning. Please keep me posted.

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After using the vac for 10 minutes or so, the motor starts turning on and off with greater frequency the longer I let it run. Eventually it is on and off so frequently that it has no power. Would this...

No it dosen't. I fix central vacs all the time and relays usally don't do what you described. They either go out all the way and won't turn on or they will trip and you will have to push the breaker back in. What is probably happening is you have a short in your low voltage wiring. this wiring goes from the hose handle all the way back to the unit (you can see the two little wires clip in to the side of the unit). My guess is that it is in the hose some where and when you turn it a certain way it shorts and the unit turns off. It can be hard to find shorts sometimes so you might need to call an expert.

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On my kenmore central vac no power unplug unit plug it back green light comes on but try turning vac on green light goes off again .

Please clarify that we are talking about the central vac LED/switch panel panel and plugging it into a 110 V wall receptacle.
If I understand when you unplug from the power source ,then plug back in the green LED comes on, looking normal ? But when you manually activate the switch on the motor housing of the vac itself the vac does not start and the LED goes out, so no green or red LED at that point?
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If you have a small tipped soldering IRON, not a gun, you can generally find a replacement relay to rebuild the board for about $6 at an electronics parts store. Otherwise you will need to replace the control board itself, anywhere form $45 to $70 plus service call if you have a tech come out to the house, and the tech will just unscrew , detach wires and replace the board, no repair , approx 15 minutes work. This will likely cost over $100.
Please post back with your results

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Is there a small LED light illuminated where the low voltage wires connect to the main unit? There may be a small rubber boot covering the connection and the light. Just slide it back, and there should be a green LED light if the unit has power. If the LED is not on, there is no power to the unit (tripped breaker, plug came loose from electrical outlet, etc.) If LED is illuminated, short across the pins where the low voltage wires connect to the main unit. (These will be small 18-22 gauge wires, not the larger electrical cable!) You can do this with a coin. (Don't worry, it's just 24 volts and you won't even feel it) The unit should come on. If it doesn't, and you have light from the LED, then it's probably the relay on the board inside the unit, or the motor. Good Luck!

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I work on many types of units. If you electric floor brush runs but you have no suction then there is possibly a problem with the relay board that allows you to turn on the suction from the hose handle. This is a low voltage (24 V) switching loop circuit that will cause the 120 V motor in the unit to run.

Inside the wall valve are two brass pins. NOTE: there are 120V valves installed on some systems known as a Super Valve. A shock hazared exists if you work on that type of valve. That being said. In the round portion of the valve you can use a garage hose that has a 360 deg. chrome ring to test the valve. The ring completes the circuit causing the unit to power up and suction at the end of the hose. If the suction is weak, there is a colg in the pipe. If you hear no airflow, the relay inside the unit did not energize or the motor is bad.

To test: go to the unit and turn the switch on the side to "manual" if the unit turns on the motor should be ok. DO NOT RUN THE UNIT without and open valve. In some brands dammage to your motor will occure.

If the unit did not run, look for a small button near the switch. This is a circuit breaker for the motor. If it is poped out and you hear a "click" when you press it in there is most likely motor problems and someone should be contacted for repair.

Hope this helps!!


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