Tub drain wont stay open - American Standard Scala Bathtub Only AME-2664.202

If your drain is not high enough the water will siphon out while filling. Check your owner's manual for correct height, usually about 39 inches from ground

LD Error - indicates that drain times are longer than expected.
Is there water in the bottom of the tub? If yes then open back of washer and remove drain pump (on left side) and pull off of tub and clear whatever is blocking its impeller. If the water is all gone and drained but pump stays on for several minutes and then gives "LD" fault then open back and check the small clear tube that is attached to the tub. Make sure is not blocked with debris and check tube and tub for anything that could block the small clear tube. If these are ok then remove 3 screws in back of the control panel, pull open control panel and check the clear tub all the way up from the tub to the washer controller board (computer) make sure it is not kinked or disconnected. If not then the problem is most likely the pressure sensor on the (control board). This unit will have to be replaced.



Other details could find in this article HERE. Hope helps.

hi, if you push down on the button and giggle it around it should pop back up once you have it up remove it by unscrewing it and clean the area so that it won't get jammed again

Hello the LD code simply means "Long Drain"
Is there water in the bottom of the tub? If yes then open back of washer and remove drain pump (on left side) and pull off of tub and clear whatever is blocking its impeller.
If the water is all gone and drained but pump stays on for several minutes and then gives "LD" fault then open back and check the small clear tube that is attached to the tub. Make sure is not blocked with debris and check tube and tub for anything that could block the small clear tube. If these are ok then remove 3 screws in back of the control panel, pull open control panel and check the clear tub all the way up from the tub to the washer controller board (computer) make sure it is not kinked or disconnected. If not then the problem is most likely the pressure sensor on the (computer). This unit will have to be replaced.
You can test the sensor by doing the following: 1. When the "LD" fault comes on start by pressing the pause button. then pull the clear tube off of the computer board. Then attach a tight fitting drinking straw over the sensor. Press the start button and wait for 60 seconds - If the washer does not start the spin cycle on its own after the 60 seconds then **** on the drinking straw that you attached to the pressure sensor earlier. The sucking action should reset the sensor thus telling the computer that the water is drained and it will start the spin cycle. Just remember if you have to do this to get the washer to spin - that means the sensor is damaged most likely from moisture traveling up the tube over time. The computer board will need to be replaced. I believe it costs $205 without shipping.

Thanks

NOT A EASY FIX,THE CABLE IS NOT ADJUSTED RIGHT,

Open your drain valve under the unit to break any air lock that will have gotten there when you drained the tub.

The drain hose might be too low. Make sure the drain hose is at least three feet above the floor.

I take it that you removed the drain trip linkage and stopper through the vent hole .
You must now run a small hand or small power snake the less than eight feet to open the drain.
You can also plug up the vent,tightly and  try a flat plunger on the tub drain .  

hi friend,
If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many
washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub
that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's
attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the
hoses
from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the
large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using
needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator,
top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might
be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be
turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably
has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the
pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen
or stiff--replace it.

It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your
washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the
washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck
in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

* If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.


* If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

Remove drain hose from where it connects to the plumbing under the sink/tub. Inspect the spigot. If clogged, clean. If clean, then tilt machine back and remove drum to pump hose from pump. Check hose and also drain pump. Clear any obstructions.