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The CHECK VENT duct blockage sensing system detects and alerts you to blockages in the duct work that reduce exhaust flow from the dryer. This light does not indicate any problems with your dryer. If this light blinks, it indicates that your home's exhaust system/duct work has a serious restriction
Every time the dryer is turned on, the CHECK FILTER LIGHT WILL BLINK, as a reminder to make sure the filter is clean. Always make sure the lint filter is clean before starting a new load; a clogged lint filter will increase drying times.
The Kenmore Elite dryer has a sensor that detects poor exhaust venting, and when it does, a light flashes on the control panel. This warning light does not include a mechanism to stop gas flow, but if it is allowed to flash for an extended period, poor venting may cause the dryer to overheat. As a result, a fuse might blow and disable the gas valve or ignitor. You can prevent this by diagnosing the reason for the flashing indicator light as soon as possible.
In many cases, LINT has built up somewhere in the exhaust pipes.
Check under the lint filter. Pull it out,look inside the slot it fits in, and clear all lint from this area.
Is it possible you have used the WRONG VENT MATERIAL?
Check your vent to make sure it is 4 inch rigid or semi-rigid metal ducting. If your venting is plastic or flexible foil, replace it before using the dryer.
Check your vent hood outside. You may have a restricted or damaged vent hood. It must be clean and free of lint buildup. Check the damper and make sure it opens fully and easily and is free of lint.
I know you said you have no elbows, but I have posted the pipe run lengths with and without elbows. Keep in mind this is with 4 inch rigid or semi rigid metal ducting.
Measure the length of your exhaust system and count the elbows. Use the chart below to see if your duct is too long. If it is too long, have the duct routed to another location that is within the venting guidelines.
0~90 degree elbows=65 ft of 4 inch rigid metal duct.
1~90 degree elbow=55 ft of 4 inch rigid metal duct.
2~90 degree elbows=47 ft """"""""
3~90 degree elbows=36 ft """"""""
4~90 degree elbows=28 ft """"""""
You should always use duct tape or metal tape on all joints, NEVER USE SCREWS, as screws capture lint inside the pipe.
One more note. Lots of people overlook the fact that fabric softeners can build up on the lint filter over time. This buildup can restrict the airflow through the filter reducing dryer efficiency and lengthening drying times. After removing lint, if the filter looks dark or dirty when held up to the light, follow these steps to clean:
Use hot soapy water and a stiff brush to clean
Make sure the filter is completely dry before
reinstalling it and using the dryer.
NEVER operate the dryer with a wet lint filter.
If your old clothes dryer is not working well, how do you tell if it's time to replace it?Here are some things to check before you set it on the curb with a"FREE" sign. If it still turns on, runs a proper cycle, doesn't make a lot of squeaks and groans, and your clothes are at least attempting to dry, then check the following before you decide to replace.
1. Check and empty your lint trap before each load. If airflow is restricted, your dryer will need longer to get the job done. A clean lint trapwill allow for maximum intake air to the dryer blower. 2. Check the exhaust duct work for lint buildup. If the 4" duct work that carries your warm, moist, lint-laden air to the exterior of your home is blocked with years of lint and moisture, chances are pretty good your dryer is taking longer than it should to get your clothes dry.
Disconnect the dryer power cord (and gas line if a gas unit), slide the dryer forward far enough to access the 4" duct work clamp at the back of the dryer. Disconnect the duct work at the dryer and separate to inspect both in the dryer exhaust duct and the duct work as well.
Remove all built up lint. You may need to access under the floor, or in the crawlspace, or basement to get at all the areas that lint may be built up. Remember that when there's an elbow chances are pretty good there's lint in there, so take the time to separate the duct work where needed to give it a thorough clean out.
Long straight sections of duct work can be easily cleaned by using a Webster-style pole brush.
Clean the exhaust duct of the dryer but be careful not to damage anything inside your dryer
Reconnect and turn the dryer on air fluff to blow the rest out.
3. Remove lint build up from inside the machine
Turn power off again
Remove the front cover of your dryer
Remove the front drum support/air duct from the front of the dryer
Carefully vacuum the lint out of the dryer with soft brush attachment on your vac. Be careful not to damage any igniter or electrical items.
Clean the inside of the lint trap duct of sediment/ buildup
4. While you've got it open replace the drive belt and check the pulleys.
If this improves your dryer, hang onto it for a while longer! Most times dryers just need a good cleaning and the exhaust duct cleaned. If you're not satisfied with the results, take it to the curb and recycle it to another family.
Here's some useful guidance for installing dryer ducting.Improperly installed ducting can cause the following:
GAS DRYERS - Rapid burn cycling and improper drying results. ELECTRIC DRYERS - Premature Heating Element failures.
IMPORTANT! NEVER terminate ducting in a chimney, under an enclosed crawl space or attic, and never common a dryer duct with a kitchen exhaust.
The total length of ducting and number of turns should be kept to a minimum.Semi-rigid metal type ducting is strongly recommended as it is more durable and resists collapsing.
If connecting sections of ducting, all joints should be tight to avoid leaks.The male end of each section must point AWAY from the dryer to prevent lint from accumulating at each junction.Ductwork should NOT be assembled with screws or fasteners that extend INTO the duct as this also will create points where lint will become snagged and accumulate.Wrap overlapping sections of ducting with duct tape.
A screen should NEVER be installed over the exhaust duct termination.The preferred termination is a dampered wall cap having a 4 inch opening.It must be installed a minimum of 12 inches above the ground.
Maximum Length of Metal Duct:
# of 90 degree elbows:
4" Semi-Rigid4" Flexible 0 - 58 ft28 ft 1 - 48 ft23 ft 2 - 38 ft19 ft 3 - 29 ft17 ft 4 - 21 ft 15 ft
NOTE: It is recommended that you inspect your dryer ducting periodically to ensure you have no lint build up.Excessive lint can present a fire hazard.
A common reason for a thermal cut-off fuse to blow is because there is a clog in your venting system.
So before you do anything, unplug the gas dryer from the wall outlet.
Turn off the gas (shut off valve) to the dryer.
Slowly pull the clothes dryer away from the wall; disconnect your vent line from the dryer. Then remove the lint screen from the dryer.
Using a lint screen brush, from the front of the dryer and with a vacuum hose (preferably a shop vac) connected to the back (bottom) end of the exhaust vent - do a thorough cleaning and remove all the lint.
(Note: I own rental property, so besides my own clothes dryer, I vacuum out my tenant\'s dryers at least once a year.using the LintEater Dryer Vent Cleaning System; http://www.rewci.com/lirodrveclki1.html
There\'s an instructional video on the same page- and no, I have no personal or financial interest in this company- just passing on good product information)
You\'ll want to clean the entire length of the duct work all the way out to the exhaust flap on the outside your house.
I\'m telling you this because if it is the thermal cut-off fuse that blew and you replace it while the venting system is still clogged, you\'ll end up with the same problem of blowing the fuse again; and risk the possibility of a fire or carbon monoxide poisoning.
BTW, make sure you are using rigid metal pipe for venting the exhaust from the dryer DO NOT use plastic, thin foil, or non-metallic flexible duct lines. Believe it or not, sometimes the lint fibers act like burning embers in the duct line, so you don\'t want them to burn through the flimsy material- and of course you don\'t want dangerous carbon monoxide gases that should be venting outside, - building up in your home. (As a matter of fact, I even have a carbon monoxide detector system monitored through my alarm company that covers my gas fired furnace, water heater, and dryer. I have seen first-hand the devastating effects from dryer fires; property, life, and limb!)
When you use rigid metal pipe for venting, don\'t screw the pieces together- the screws, when they protrude into the duct work, can catch lint; use HVAC / appliance rated duct tape to join and seal the duct joints together.
When you replace the thermal cut-off fuse you should replace the hi-limit thermostat too! They are usually sold as a set.
You can perform a continuity test on both parts to see if they are defective.
1.) Unplug the dryer. Remove the back panel
2.) Disconnect the wires from the thermal cut-off fuse and the hi-limit thermostat to test them. You\'ll need a multi-meter; you\'ll set the multu-tester to read resistance, measured in Ohms.
Set your multimeter to the R x 1 scale and touch the leads to the thermal cut-off fuse terminals to test for continuity. If you get an infinite reading, replace the cut-off fuse. It\'s the same testing procedure for testing the hi-limit thermostat.
For a visual "how to" testing procedures on the hi-limit thermostat go to:
Here’s some useful guidance for installing dryer
ducting.Improperly installed ducting
can cause the following:
GAS DRYERS – Rapid burn cycling and improper drying results.
ELECTRIC DRYERS – Premature Heating Element failures.
IMPORTANT! NEVER terminate ducting in a chimney,
under an enclosed crawl space or attic, and never common a dryer duct with a
The total length of ducting and number of turns should be
kept to a minimum.Semi-rigid metal type
ducting is strongly recommended as it is more durable and resists collapsing.
If connecting sections of ducting, all joints should be
tight to avoid leaks.The male end of
each section must point AWAY from the dryer to prevent lint from accumulating
at each junction.Ductwork should NOT be
assembled with screws or fasteners that extend INTO the duct as this also will
create points where lint will become snagged and accumulate.Wrap overlapping sections of ducting with
A screen should NEVER be installed over the exhaust duct
termination.The preferred termination
is a dampered wall cap having a 4 inch opening.It must be installed a minimum of 12
inches above the ground.
Maximum Length of Metal Duct:
# of 90 degree elbows4”
Flexible 058 ft28 ft 148 ft23 ft 238 ft19 ft 329 ft17 ft 421 ft15 ft
NOTE: It is recommended that you inspect your dryer ducting
periodically to ensure you have no lint build up.Excessive lint can present a fire hazard.
Codes typically require that the dryer duct be no more than 25 feet long. It should be 2.5 feet shorter than 25 feet for every 45-degree bend and 5 feet shorter for every 90-degree bend. If the duct is more than 25 feet in length, the system requires a booster fan or a high-output dryer. Ducts should be smooth metal with a minimum diameter of 4". Flexible ducts shouldn't be used, since they collect more lint and can easily be crushed, impeding airflow and potentially starting lint fires. The ducts shouldn't have screws or connectors, which could collect lint, blocking the flow of combustion gases. Backdrafting can occur if the ducts are blocked, sending harmful carbon monoxide back into the home.
the pilot lighting system may be clogged with lint. unplug cutoff gas behind dryer. remove exhaust duct and see if there is more than the thicknessof an inkpin. if it is then it is time for a serious cleaning,both in the rear panel and the vent. use no screwsin duct, use onlymetal tape to fasten the connector .use only the duct clamp too reconnectto dryer.make sure there are no crimps in duct. karl
It is strongly recommended that you DON'T trap the lint. Doing so, can cause the lint to back up inside the ducting and eventually cause longer dry times on your clothing, and/or your heating circuits to over heat and fail. A dryer requires proper (unobstructed) air flow in order to work efficiently. I would recommend that you reroute your dryer ducting to divert the exhaust away from your pool pump. Please let me know if you require further assistance.