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If the pump is running and the water goes out the prblem is with the coupler or the clutch. If nothing is running the lid switch should be checked first. Eric
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F2 mean that you have a drainage problem and could be that the pump is clogged. I believe the pump can be accessed from the front of the washer. Also make sure electrical connections are secure. Make sure no hoses are clogged or kinked anywhere.
Instead of using a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut, I've found that using a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, and giving the handle of the wrench a "smack" with a hammer works just as well. Also, instead of directly hitting the underside of the Drive Block with a hammer (which could damage it) use a short piece of wood under the block and tap up on the wood with a hammer.
Your washer, and any Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a clutch to provide power to the basket spin tube. The Spin tube uses a soft metal drive block to provide power to the basket for spinning.
The Sears diagrams should show you how they link up.
Also see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers.
If the clutch bands are worn, or the Cam on the basket drive is broken / worn, or the Motor Coupler (between the motor and transmission) is broken, or the drive block is damaged the washer cannot get up to speed for spinning.
With all of the major components taken out, you should be able to see which is the culprit.
Sears / Whirlpool have "rebuild kits" for the clutch and brake / spin tube as well as motor couplers (a common problem).
While you have the washer apart, it's a good time to give it a cleaning and visually check the pump for obstructions and to be certain that it's shaft turns.
The clicking sound could be either the link between the clutch and basket drive / brake or the slots on the drive block not in place with the tabs on the basket.
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