Take a flashlight & look into the receptical where the burners plug in. If it looks burned up, then you need to replace the recepticals(part #330031). If the burner prongs are burnt looking, they need to be filed clean or replace the burners too. If you plug burnt burner ends into a new receptical, it will burn the receptical in no time. Try spreading the prongs on the burners before plugging them back in to make a tighter contact.
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You most likely have a fault with the Thermostat. That is common on Omega Technowash which is similar to a Smeg dishwasher. More often than not the Thermostat fails rather than the heat element. However, not to completely dismiss a failed heat element.
The thermostat is not very expensive. If you don't have the means to test the element or thermostat via a multimeter, you can order the thermostat to have a go at fixing it yourself. Unplug the machine from its power point. "Two screws in the front kick plate. Open these and lift off kick plate. When you open the dishwasher door you will see an L-shaped heat element which is on the bottom of the bowl on the left and back of machine. The Thermostat is the round metal head situated on the front left in between the element coils. When you look from underneath inside where you have removed the kick-plate you can see two wires going to your heat element and 4 wires going to the Thermostat (either 2 White and 2 purpule) or (2 red and 2 white). The thermostat is pushed in from the bottom and sits in a groove of a rubber seal. You can pull it down and out from underneathe and twist and push up the replacement in its place. Make sure the sharp metal edge of thermostat is poped insided the groove, otherwise the machine will leak.
Try this first, I am fairly sure it is the thermostat. If you have a multimeter you can check continuity of the heat element.
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when it's in auto all it does is the heat comes on,reaches temp. then the heat shuts off,when the heats off then the timer advances,when the heat comes back on the timer stops.pop off the plastic cap on the left hand side of the front panel,put clothes in the dryer and run it,after 15 to 30 minutes look in the hole in the front panel and make sure the flame is still liting,also did you clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into.remove the vent line and if that's a long run blow it out with a leaf blower,i had one guy say his vent line was clear and he used a leaf blower and blew out a birds nest,then unplug the dryer,remove the back panel,on the left side take out the four screws and remove the duct and clean that out and the blower wheel,also remove the thermostat on the blower wheel housing and look at the back of it,if lint is stuck on it clean it off and put it back in and try that.also you said you changed out the gas coils,when you removed the out coils on the large coil there's a spacer that goes on the post and sometimes when you remove the coil it gets stuck inside the old coil or if after running the dryer for like 20 to 30 minutes and the flame doesn't lite you have bad gas coils,when they heat up they fail when they are going bad and that will stop the timer from advancing.let me know what you find and if i can help with any questions let me know
Hi there. I just repaired mine. The wire connected to left side (as you are looking at the front of the toaster) of the front top heating coil had come off. I replaced all four of the crimps going to each side of each of the top two heating coils as well as the wire going between the front and back coils on the left side. Make sure that you use HIGH TEMP crimps and HIGH TEMP wire. I had the crimps and purchased the wire from a ma and pa repair shop here in my town
This could be the heating element or several other parts more likely the thermal fuse. There is a video on troubleshooting a similar model at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru troubleshooting your problem.
If it will alway fire the first time after a long rest period, and then refuse to fire on the second try and the machine goes cold but continues to run, then it is almost always the coil kits on the gas valve.
That's a classic Whirlpool event.
Remove the lint filter. Remove the 2 screws under the lint filter opening.
With a thin screw driver pry up the lid (top) off the clips, one side at a time.
Lift the top front, but do not go above vertical, and prop in that position.
The front panel is held on with 2 screws, one at each corner. remove, and remove the wires from the door switch and it's clamp.
Pull the panel toward you and lift it off the bottom clips.
You will see the gas valve on the bottom left.
Unplug both wire assemblies from the coils, then remove the 2 screws that hold the bracket.
Remove bracket and lift the coils off.
Any appliance parts house will stock the coil kit.
Relace in reverse order, and it's a good time to check your vent system to make sure it is clean.
Maybe you already know this, but occasionally the coils will swell when you first turn them on and they expand to the point of arc'ing off the housing. This puts you right back to square one. I learned the hard way to buy the entire assembly when changing and not just the coil. Not sure if this is your problem or not, but worth another check. I believe the next step would have to be in the control system.
Fuse is ok . Problem is the soils on the burner valve . If the dryer heats when started , the electricity goes thru the coils to open the valve . Once the coils get warm , 1 will open (short) until it cools back down . The coils can be replaced just by removing the front panel . Only 2 screws hold the coils in place . No turning off gas , dissasembling dryer .
1.there is a little 1x1 square bottom left pop it out and see if you see the igniter glowing 2.make sure you are getting gas, 3 look at the igniter 4. make sure you have 110volts at the igniter it has a plug unplug it and check for voltage there..
let me know what you find out i can get you genuine parts for cheap and ship for 4.95 whirlpoolpartssurplus.com - mark