I have a CDA cookerhood,approx 7 years old. No problems with fan but we have had to replace light bulbs recently after lights blew but cannot get them to come on. Is there a fuse in the light fitting that we need to replace. We do not have a manual so if you could give us any advise that would be great.

Check power to bulb base. Replace bulb.

Could be an issue with the lamp ballast causing intermittent operation.

All is well with your fan. Light bulbs sometimes will blow with a surge of power. This happens to everyone. If you feel uncomfortable with the 60 watt go for 40 watt. It will be less bright however. No need to worry about the fixture catching on fire

Hello :

It seems that you have problem on LED flicker PCB .
See the pictures to know what I mean :

This must be happened when the lamp blew out .

I hope this will help .

please rate !

CHECK LAMP COVER, CLOSE IT AGAIN THE RIGHT WAY

something wrong on the curcuit board, to much voltage

How do I change light bulb in my windcrest hood and what type does it take?

There is a receiver in the fan that when the light blew might have damaged that part of the receiver. I think you can buy them,but you will have to get into the base of the fan(ceiling cover).

Allways unplug when your working inside a microwave, you will most likely have to replace the bulb again and also the fan, or anything else that is damaged, you will need to inspect the microwave for broken parts.

Il get you a few links to repair parts.

If you're getting 120V at the lampholders, yet it's not lighting lamps that still work perfectly well in other fittings, two possibilitiesspring to mind.

One is that the cap on the bulbs isn't quite compatible with the fitting. Assuming they're some variant of Edison Screw, make sure that the centre terminal in the lampholder is sticking out far enough to touch the terminal on the bulb. Also check whether the lampholder achieves it's outer connection just with a small tab, rather than with the whole of the threaded ring. If so, make sure that this is going to touch the appropriate part of the bulb.

The other possibility is that you've got a high resistance connection somewhere - not enough of an open circuit to drop the 120 V when feeding the Megohm load presented by a meter, but more than enough to kill the supply when you have a lamp load. Only way to chase this is to use the meter on ohms range to bell out all the wiring between the lampholders and bits of the system which do work properly.

A.