I have this Xplod amp for quite awhile and not had a problem with it. Just an hour ago i was driving and it cut out. I stopped to look at what the problem was. When i looked at the amp a RED light was on saying OVERCURRENT. what does this mean and what are all the possibilities of why it is doing this?
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Re: Sony Xplod Amp
Disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
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Amp is probably over heating. Make sure the ohm load of speaker is good for that amp. This amp is not really built to handle a bridged 2 ohm load. Make sure ground wire is clean and tight to the body chassis.
You only gave us the model of the amp so I will make an assumption that your 12" subs are the Sony XS-GTX120LW. First, they cannot hold 1200 watts a piece. They are meant to be powered with 350 watts RMS. They will hold 1200 watts peak. That means that 1200 watts for a few seconds will be ok. Past that and kiss them goodbye!
Next you indicated that bridged the amp. Since the subs are both 4 ohm single voice coils did you wire them in series or parallel?
It sounds to me like you wired them in parallel resulting in the amp seeing a 2 ohm load. The amp you referenced is only stable when bridged at 4 ohms.
Has the amp begun working again once it cooled down? If not you could have fried the outputs by having the resistance too low.
if your amp is overheating your sub is needing to much power that the amp doesnt have.
if its cutting out and the red light comes on you need to check the wiring. nothing not even the tinyest speaker wires can be touching.
proper wiring would be your best bet.
but i would upgrade amps.
cheap bang isnt reliable.
well you might want to try using 30 amp atc fuses instead of 10 amp fuses on your amp, because you are getting an overcurrent from your alternator then from your battery. I have the same amp and you will find that your subbs will hit better too. also check on your ground wire from your amp as this also will cause the RED light to come on. :)
Almost all after market amps use 12v at very very low amperage to trigger the amp on. A temporary jumper from the battery plus terminal on the amp AFTER the battery and ground wires are attached should cause the amp to turn on. I would check to see if you have attached your speaker load correctly ESPECIALLY if you are bridging. Most of the blown amps that come into my shop are due to incorrect bridging loads from the speakers. Note that a 4ohm load bridged across both outputs of an amp will deliver a 2ohm load to each of the channels. When you parallel wire two 4ohm speakers together and then attached them to a bridged amp you will be putting a 1 (one) ohm load to each channel of the amp. Please don't make this mistake. It will fry your amp in about a month. Hope this helps. Good luck.