Machine will not spin. Suspect that the bearing is shot. I need to replace the shelling (?) and a gasket. I need a schematic diagram to repair this and can a rooky like me do it? Can I download the manual? thanx.

I don't know these front loaders so well but, here's a couple of things to look for.
1) If belt driven, look for the spring loaded tensioner. Once tension is released, check the pully & see if it has excessive play.
2) Check the gasket on front panel & see if drum has rubbed thru it in order to make metal to metal contact.
3) There is alot of pressure on that rear bearing...make sure it's not egg shaped or scored on the inside.

If all else fails, shotgun it (in other words, replace those moving parts you suspect:)

Unfortunately, the repairman is probably correct. If the rear tub bearing goes bad on these washers, or if one of the spin basket drum supports breaks, it usually requires the replacement of the internal spin basket. One simple test you can do yourself is to open the washer door and place your hand inside the drum at the 12 o'clock (top) position. Push straight up and release. If there is any play in the drum, this usually means one of the rear spin basket supports has broken, or the rear bearing is bad. Unfortunately, the only way to make this determination is to take the washer part and remove the outer drum shells. If the spin basket supports are intact, the drum bearing is molded into the rear drum shell. The bearing usually is not removable, which requires the replacement of the entire back shell. This is a maintenance intensive repair that usually takes a trained technician about 2 hours to complete. Even if you attempt the repair on your own, the spin basket alone costs over $300. The rear tub shell (with the bearing) is about $345. You may try contacting the manufacturer to see if there is a warranty on the spn basket. You can use the following link to see what warranty informaiton may be available on your appliance:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/nb_10153_12608_NB_CSwarrantyinformation?adCell=W3&i_cntr=1292622625154

It has been my experience that overloading the washer can contribute to the premature failure of the bearing and drum supports, however, there have been some cases where the spin basket supports prematurely failed due to poor welds or corrosion. These washers are usually very reliable and should last many years with proper care.

I do not necessarily agree with the repairman's assessment on the drain pump, however. If the drum slipped off the support mount springs while running, the washer would not have completed the cycle and would have shut down. This would have left any water that was already in the tub unable to be drained. If the tech performed a diagnostic test AFTER the drum was put back in place and the water still would not drain, there should have been an error code present on the front panel display of either "F02, F21, or "SUD".

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know.

The rL error code during the clean cycle is likely caused by friction on the spin basket shaft since you indicate that you hear squeaking when the washer is spinning. The squeaking is normally caused by a bad bearing in the rear tub shell. I recommend that you have the washer diagnosed and repaired by a Sears service technician. This type of problem will normally require an extensive tear down of the washer to repair. It is not a problem that you can normally repair yourself.

Open the door & slowly rotate the spin basket to see if you can feel any kind of drag on the bearings. If the bearings check good, the control board is sensing a load & will need to be replaced.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

The noise coming from this machine as it spins is due to -- If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly and the outer shell with the tub bearing.
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.

Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

The plastic casing (tub shell) around the stainless spin basket should not become worn unless the spin basket is hitting the outer shell. From my past experience, this is usually caused by a cracked or broken spin basket support (spider) arm on the back of the spin basket, or a shot tub bearing (which is also behind the spin basket). The bearing is actually part of the rear tub shell and is molded into the plastic. It cannot be replaced separately and requires the replacmeent of the shell.

If the spin basket supports become broken, the basket becomes off balance and rubs against the outer shell. This results in excessive vibration, which may be the reason why the support shocks were broken. No...this is not normally expected. Unfortnately, this is not a simple or inexpensive repair, either. If you have a service plan, or warranty coverage, I would recommend pursuing that as a repair option. If you wish to repair this yourself, I can post a link for you to follow, but it is expensive. This will usually require the replacement of the following parts:

Spin Basket
Rear Tub Shell (if bearing is bad)
Front Tub Shell (if spin basket caused significant damage)
Support Shocks (I would recommend replacing all 4)

Optional:
Drive Belt Pulley (can become warped or bent)
Drive Belt (if showing signs of wear)
Rubber Door Bellow (if vibration as caused damage to the rubber)

You can go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number to get prices for everything if you like. Everything can be found under the "Tub and Basket Parts" heading, with the exception of the rubber door bellow. It can be located under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading.

I know none of this sounds like positive news, but I do hope you find some of this information helpful. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Are the streaks on smaller pieces of clothing (socks, etc.)? If so, the clothing item might be getting caught inside the rubber gasket around the door, and getting the streak from there. Try cleaning inside the fold of the rubber gasket very well, and often and see if it keeps happening.

-Ellie

If the rear bearing is bad it will require the replacement of the entire rear tub shell. This is because the bearing is molded into the plastic and cannot be replaced separately (I know, its a stupid design). Sometimes additional damage can occur and the inner spin basket and front shell may also need replaced. In addition, what may seem like a bad rear bearing, might be a broken tub support on the spin basket. In a nutshell, you may have to replace both tub shells and spin basket at a minimum. With parts and labor the repairs could cost $600-$800. If you have no extended warranty or service plan coverage, it may not be worth the effort to repair due to the excessive cost. Sorry...I wish I had better news for you. I hopes this provides you with some answers.