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Re: Hi Fi Speaker
Might be your amp dying on you? Overheating and giving up in the end. Open it up and check the output stage. Depending on make/model it's using power modules or a few transistors per channel. The modules are little black boxes screwed onto a heatsink as are the transistors, only a bit smaller and usually two per channel. When one of the pairs feels warmer than the other the problem lies there. Best to bring it into a repair shop.
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Check the balance (L/R) settings. IT is very unusual for something like this to happen. The problem usually is a total failure of one amp. If this is not the case then it might need to be adjusted and that would take special equipment.
I have a similar problem with my Kenwood Basic M1D , C2 setup. Move the input select switch through all of its selections a couple of times, this will clean the contacts and should give you a couple of years more life. Or get the Amp serviced there are some very good small Hi-Fi shops. Incidentally the earphone port is usually a signal taken before the amplifier but after the pre amp so is unaffected by the power amplifier. Unfortunately it could aslo be a failed channel in the amp. These can be repaired or replaced and will be cheaper than a new unit.
Try the following : 1 Temporarily connect each speaker to a different sound source, to detect if the left or right speaker is faulty, or both. 2 Temporarily connect a different speaker to your HI FI (or whatever your sound sustem is). This way you have identified if the problem is in the machine or the speakers. If the problem is in the speaker, remove the screws and carefully remove the actual speaker (4 screws and two wires to un-solder). Take the speaker to a good audio components shop and buy an equivalent. Re solder the 2 wires & replace all screws. NOTE: Do not muck around with the cross-over electronic components, unless you have the skills).
HI, BASED ON THE INFO YOU GAVE I HAVE SOME SUGGESTIONS BELOW..
1, switch the working right speakers cable to left output and problem left to right (from the back of receiver -not from the speakers it self..) to see if problem continues..
2.After switching them ,if it (old left new right one ) still stops left speaker cable may have short ( a tiny cable inner pieces may touching to other side ) at either at the back of receiver output or at the end ,at speaker input . make sure you control it carefully...if the problem persist please contact to me..
Take care and please Remember to rate/vote and give me 4 Thumbs Up for Helping out the Community :) Hope this helps! Thanks
sir i think ypur unit is ok and run correctly... try to check your speaker maybe your speaker got open or burnt... you can test it by swapping your speaker to another unit or you can test your speaker using multitester...just point your selector at resistance test a speaker has 8ohms reading....
the speaker has a two terminal.. a positive terminal and a negative terminal... your multitester has a two lead.. red lead which is a positive and a black lead which is negative.. Multimeter probe sockets (NL Graphics)
Insert the probes of a digital
multimeter in the correct sockets of the multimeter. There may be
several different sockets for the probes depending on what parameters
you're measuring. Look for the sockets marked "impedance" or displaying
the ohm symbol. Different models and brands of multimeters will vary in
their labeling, so check your multimeter's manual if you're not certain
about which one to use.
Select the range for the
multimeter. Since you'll be measuring fairly low resistance levels with a
speaker, choose a range that will encompass readings in the 2-16 ohm
range. It's extremely rare to find speakers that will have an impedance
outside of that range.
Touch one probe to each of the
speaker terminals and check the reading. This will be the impedance of
the speaker. Record the measurement, and when you're done, turn off the
multimeter to preserve the batteries for the next time you need the
There is no speaker cable extensions available for your system but if you goto www.BogueEngineering.com you will find speaker cables with the special connector and they come in any custom length you need, even if you need 100 feet speaker cable you wil get it and they also come in many different heavy duty gauges. You can also email these guys at Bogue-Engineering@live.com
So are you saying the error goes away when you disconnect the center speaker and its cables? Sounds like you have one more step to isolate the exact external component: try a different speaker as the center and/or try a different speaker cable.
Did you set the speaker impedance (Page 33 and 117) to 6-ohm min. AND - the manual does actually say "the impedance of each speaker must be 6-ohms or higher" for all BUT the Front speakers.
First, let's start with the BX8a. Those are powered speakers (built-in amplifier in each) so, you do not need a pre-amp. What you need to connect them to your computer is a 3.5mm to XLR cable OR a 3.5mm to 1/4" TRS cable, also known as 3.5mm to two 1/4" mono plugs (the back of the BX8a has inputs that accept either type). Cables are available at most any electronics stores. Make sure you buy a long enough cable to run from the back of the computer to where the speakers will be. It sounds that you only have one BX8a which means you'll be listening to only one channel of the stereo output. In any case, make sure before connecting the speaker(s) to the computer that speaker power is off and volume control is at minimum. Connect the 3.5mm cable end to Line Out 1 jack of the X-Fi sound card and either the XLT or TRS ends to the speaker(s) input(s). Play some audio content on your computer, turn on speaker(s) and slowly increase volume to a safe level. Everything should work fine. Let me know how it goes.
I bought my VE-28s and it did exactly that crackled, cerwin replaced part in amp but few months later problem persisted. they then replaced entire amp assembly and its been fine. i really push it to and its been fine. to test it, unplug the connection from amp/ reciever and see if it persists. if so its the sub, if not its the amp/ reciever. dont dump it, these subs really crank and can put out some deep loud bass.