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My kenmore 110 will fill and rinse, but will not agitate, drain, or spin. I ran 2 tests before this post. Once the washer gets to the wash cycle, it just stops, I get nothing. I also don't hear any motor noises either. 1st, I manually emptied the tub, reset the timer to the beginning, and restarted the washer and closed the lid. Washer filled as normal, then stopped when it achieved low level water, I changed to medium level and water began to fill again, so level switch I think is OK. I let the timer run through its entire course of time and it did fine, but no cycles or noise. So my 2nd test was to jump the lid switch, to eliminate the switch, I got exact same results as 1st test. What now? Kenmore 110.82874120

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  • 3 more comments 
  • mcris77 Nov 20, 2009

    No did you read my post? I already by jumped the switch, same problem!

  • mcris77 Nov 20, 2009

    Even though the timer ran its full course? I closed the lid and the timer went through all stages of the cycle, just no action once the tub is to proper level.

  • mcris77 Nov 20, 2009

    Thank you, that does help. There is no noise at all from the motor, do you have the motor part number and perhaps instructions on the replacement? Is it worth the repair?

  • mcris77 Nov 20, 2009

    Thank you, that does help. There is no noise at all from the motor, do you have the motor part number and perhaps instructions on the replacement? Is it worth the repair?

  • mcris77 Nov 20, 2009

    Is there any way to test the motor switch before I buy a motor and switch?

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  • 5,911 Answers

Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or, if the washer fills, then stops and will NOT drain, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop around for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, but if you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: You do not need to drain the washer to replace the switch.

Posted on Nov 19, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Nov 20, 2009

    NOTE: If you've by-passed the switch with the same result, you may have a defective timer.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Nov 20, 2009

    I apologize, but I didn't see the last segment of your post until I posted the solution. I immediately jumped on it thinking I had the solution, because I'm familiar with the initial symptoms. Most commonly this is caused by a lid switch. However, after re-reading it, you've confirmed the lid switch and timer action. The only thing left that activates the transmission to begin agitation is the drive motor. The drive motor is also used to drive the drain pump, which would explain why it also does not drain. I"m sorry, I was trying to help...

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Nov 20, 2009

    One last item: If you HEAR the drive motor running, then this problem would be attributed to a broken motor coupling between the drive motor and gearcase (transmission). The washer usually makes a loud rattling type noise if the coupler is broken. The symptoms would still be the same. Washer fills, attempts to run, no agitation, and will not drain. The part number is 285753A.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Nov 20, 2009

    The following link explains how to replace the drive motor:



    http://www.fixya.com/support/r599953-rep...



    Now...in the case with your drive motor, it is a small motor switch that you can purchase as a separate item. Either the switch has failed, or the motor itself is not working. The part numbers are as follows:



    Drive Motor - 3349644

    Motor Switch - 8529896



    If you purchase just the switch it runs about $60. If you purchase the entire motor (which includes the switch), you'll spend about $120. You'll find it listed the cheapest at pcappliancerpair.com. If you wish to view an exploded view diagram of your washer you can go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number.



    Its not a terribly expensive repair, but its not cheap, either. It still costs less than purchasing a new one. The decision is yours...

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Nov 20, 2009

    Access the motor and remove the switch. It simply unplugs. You should be able to take resistance readings across the switch terminals and toggle the switch to see if you get a change in resistance. Open - Off, Short - Closed.



    If the switch is toggling properly, plug it back into the drive motor and momentarily by-pass the lid switch. With the timer set on an operate position, you should be able to push the switch toggle to see if the drive motor runs. If the motor still does not run, you more than likely have a bad motor.

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