Question about GE Refrigerators
Icemaker makes ice but water not dispensing
Most likely your water control valve on rear of refrigerator has failed. Do this pour tap water into the ice maker make sure it is on and let the water freeze. If the ice drops and does not refill then the water control valve is the problem. If ice maker does not cycle then it is the ice maker. Find your model number around the door frame and tell me which model GE you have and I will tell you the replacement parts. Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: icemaker not making ice
First thing to check is to see if the optics are working properly. This is the red flashing light on right hand side of freezer wall. Close the flipper door, be sure not to block the beam, and the light should go to solid red. If it does then the optics are ok. If it continues to blink then that is your problem. If optics check ok then pull ice maker out and remove the white plastic cover. It just pulls off. Look at the center of the gear wheel and see if one of the plastic tabs is either broken or if they are sort of twisted and touching eachother. If any of these things with the gear have happened then that module will need to be replaced along with the ice maker thermostat. If your not sure how to replace these parts then just replace the whole ice maker. That is much easier and not much more costly.
After changing the parts or the ice maker out follow these steps to start the ice maker thru a cycle. 1. Remove the ice maker from the cradle but leave the harness connected. Remove the front cover from the module. Unplug the refrigerator. Get a small jumper wire with bare ends and jump T and H on the module, leave the jumper in and set the ice maker on the shelf. Close the door. Now plug the refer back in and wait 30 seconds. Open the door and the ice-maker should be cycling. Remove the jumper, put the module cover back on and set it back in the cradle. The fill should take place when the ejector blades reach the 12:00 position. Follow these steps exactly in order
Posted on Nov 10, 2007
SOURCE: icemake not making water
At bottom hinge of freezer is the water line to door. Undo connection in line. It may be a quick connect. To undo push in on one end flange to release, and pull out line. Put bowl under end from under refrigerator and make sure doors are closed. Now push water dispenser and see if water comes out line. If it does, the line is frozen in the door. They had some models that had air leaks in freezer door. This causes insulation to freeze and water line freezes. Push in on inside of freezer door and see if it sounds like snow crunching. If it does it's probably frozen. Also peel door seal back a bit and see if is held on by numerous screws. If it is, it may be one of them that freezes. Call GE. They may still have the program going where you get 2 new doors free. Give them your model and serial numbers.
Posted on Nov 14, 2007
If your ice maker has stopped producing ice completely, check these, in this order:
Posted on May 20, 2009
HI. First, you will need to rule out any standard issues that will cause this. Check the internal, and external feed lines for any obstructions. Make sure that the internal lines are not frozen, or kinked. If the lines check out ok, move on to the water filter(if equipped).
In most units, there will be a filter, present. These devices are set to operate on a particular time frame. If their filtering limit is met, the filter will stop filtering water, thus, not allowing the fluid to flow, at all. Make sure that the filter is up to date. If you have verified that the filter is ok, move on to the water inlet valve assembly.
The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.
The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to Remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. the multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Now. If the inlet valve is operational, and it has passed the above inspection, this will lead to a faulty inlet switch. This will be located, and mounted on the ice maker module board. First you must make sure of the design. Most ice maker control sectors are the module type and some are the traditional type. the traditional type is refereed to as a component ice maker. These are easier to work on. They have the gear components exposed, just behind the face plate. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. These are not serviceable. You will need to replace the entire module, if this is your type. The inlet switch is not accessible. The ejector motor, and mold heater are the only components that can be tested on a module style ice maker.
To determine which model you have, Remove the outer face plate. If there is a knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. If it is a component style ice maker, follow the procedure below to test the inlet switch. if it is a module type, simply replace the entire ice maker. it is not repairable, due to the fact that the inlet switch is not accessible.
component ice maker inlet inspection procedure:(unplug the unit before attempting this inspection)
First you will need to Remove the entire ice maker form the unit.The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, Remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so already. Just along the the edge, nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate. The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker structure.
the inlet switch is located on the mounting plate, near the cam. the inlet switch is mounted on a thin plastic insulator and can be differentiated from the holding switch which sits on a thick spacer. the inlet switch also uses only two wires, while the holding switch uses three. Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors.Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals NOTE_ If the connectors are corroded, try to clean them. if the connectors cant be cleaned, simply, replace them.
Now, it is time for the testing section of the procedure.Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to the side terminal and the second probe to each of the other terminals. The reading should be zero on one terminal and infinite on the other. Now, repeat the test while depressing the switch, the readings should now be the reversed. If the switch fails the test, it should be replaced.
* NOTE_ If you have the component type, i would verify motor functions, as well. Test the motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Touch one probe to the wire from the wire cap. Touch the other probe to each of the two other wires in turn. The reading should be between infinity and zero for each wire.If the motor test results in a zero or infinity reading on either wire, the motor should be replaced.
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
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