Question about Whirlpool LSR5132PQ Top Load Washer

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There is something wrong with my water level switch, I have replaced it, but sometimes my washer still will just run water and drain like i've turned a faucet on and never turned it off? Any suggestions?

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  • Gerry Harvey
    Gerry Harvey May 11, 2010

    Check drain hose level height not too low resulting in syphon effect

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Ckeck the drain hose and make sure it is not lower than thetop of the washer,also make sure that there is room for air to get by drain hose.

Posted on Dec 25, 2009

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Fisher Paykel Washer GWL11 - I have replaced the Drain Pump,Pump Hose,Diverter Valve. First test: Diverter was in wrong.Drained,but tub didn't fill orrecirculate. Fixed it. Now ONLY recirculates.


After filling with a small amount of water it will recirculate for a while then fill again to a higher level. To recirculate the divertor has to heat up and expand the operating plunger. It takes a long time to cool & move back to the drain position. You may be advancing from recirculate to drain too quickly. Allow at least 2 minutes before trying to drain water.

Feb 25, 2016 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a maytag bravos x washer and tried to start a new load and it wont sense just starts agitating and makes a sound like its trying to drain and it wont stop unless I turn it off


Washer fills with water then drains:

The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch)

If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design.


If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more.
Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning.
Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine.
Try raising the hose and see what happens.
Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit.

Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation.


Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.

Apr 20, 2015 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

Sometimes the water is not staying in my washing machine


Washer fills with water then drains:

The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch)

If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design.


If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more.
Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning.
Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine.
Try raising the hose and see what happens.
Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit.

Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation.


Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.

Mar 17, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer has code nd wont drain and signals long beeps ,replaced pump and have the same problem hoses drained and didnt see any obstructions,old pump looks ok,matt


you probably used too much detergent or the wrong type. These new front loaders take no-suds detergent, a shot glass half full worth. The suds get in the water level tube and the level sensor and everywhere else, and cause mayhem. Run some loads with no detergent at all to try to clean the suds out. If the thing works like it should sometimes, it's a cheap fix. The brain power to find a problem and fix it for good, not so cheap. Water Level Switch 25315479-zejmo41uy3tce5x43qikgza0-5-0.jpg

Dec 10, 2014 | Amana NFW7200TW 3.5 Cu. Ft. Front Load...

1 Answer

Why does my sears kenmore washer empty the water immediaely after it fills.


Washer fills with water then drains:

The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch)

If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design.


If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more.
Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning.
Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine.
Try raising the hose and see what happens.
Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit.

Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation.


Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.

Oct 04, 2014 | Sears Kenmore 3.6 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer

1 Answer

When my washer was draining this morning it would not stop or advance to the next cycle. The motor wouldnot turn offuntil I unpluged it. when I plug it back in the motor starts running again and makin


Washer fills with water then drains:
The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch)

If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design.


If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more.
Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning.
Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine.
Try raising the hose and see what happens.
Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit.

Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation.


Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.

Sep 07, 2014 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

How do I check the water level sensor. When I put a load in the washer, the water level is getting lower and lower.


The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective.

You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED).


The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board.





Washer fills with water then drains:
The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch)

If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design.


If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more.
Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning.
Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine.
Try raising the hose and see what happens.
Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit.

Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation.


Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.

Jul 07, 2014 | Whirlpool 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Washer

1 Answer

Drain pump won 't stop running


Washer fills with water then drains:

The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch)

If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design.


If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more.
Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning.
Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine.
Try raising the hose and see what happens.
Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit.

Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation.


Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.

And in some modern washers that come with THERMISTORS:
One symptom of a washing machine that thinks it's overheating and thus fills and drains at same time ( possibly because of a faulty thermistor) is if it's filling with cold water and pumping out at the same time. This is covered in this articleWashing machine fills and drains at same timealthough the same symptom can be caused by other faults.

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!






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Nov 26, 2012 | LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Our washer will not complete a cycle, F21 appears,what is our solution?


You did not mention whether the washer actually pumps the water out of the washer when you are getting the F21 code. If the washer pumps the water out okay, then the pump and drain system are okay.

Excessive suds can prevent the pump from evacuating the water properly and will sometimes result in an F21. When the suds dissipate, the washer will then be able to pump out the water. Look for this type of condition if necessary.

If the drain pump runs but the washer will not drain the water, see if the washer will gravity drain. Pull the drain hose out of the stand pipe or sink and place it in a shallow pan at floor level. If the washer will gravity drain okay but will not drain when the drain pump is running then you will likely need to replace the drain pump.

If the washer will not gravity drain, then you still have a clog somewhere in the drain system. If you have not pulled the hose between the tub and the pump, then you could have a clog in this area.

If the washer does drain normally, then you could have a failed pressure switch, air pressure hose problem, wiring failure or a failed control board. I provided some technical information below that will help you test the pressure switch. Unplug the washer and remove the top panel to access the pressure switch and the electronic control board. If the tub is empty, you should measure continuity (near zero ohms) between contacts 21 and 22 on the pressure switch using a volt/ohm meter. The LEVEL 1, LEVEL 2 and OVERFLOW contacts should all measure open (infinite resistance). If the contacts on the pressure switch are okay, you can check the resistance through the wires at the electronic control board. If you get the correct resistance through the circuits measured at the control board then the control board will need to be replaced. If the wiring harness is bad, it will need to be replaced.

Nov 29, 2010 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

3 Answers

Washer drains at it fills up, so water level never gets to where it needs to be. This is in all cycles. Machine never get to a point where it starts running.


Your drain hose needs to have the "curved" part above the level of the basket top. Otherwise, water will continually run out (usually onto the floor).

Some models have a stand alone water pump that is turned on to drain the washer. The timer (during drain, spin, etc cycles) turns this pump on and off. If your hose is inserted into the stand pipe as it should be, then the water pump being turned on is likely the problem.

Since you aren't mentioning that water is all over your floor, I think that a loose / torn hose can be ruled out as well. You need another timer switch assembly.

Jun 28, 2010 | Maytag HAV2557 Top Load Washer

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