Question about GE DVL223EBWW Electric Dryer

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Ok got a GE DVL223EB1WW Insufficent Heat

Ok got a GE DVL223EB1WW Heating element is good. Got 240 volts for sure as I know what 240 volts feels like when I got shocked accidentaly. With the drum removed the heater heats up and produces good heat as it is on for almost a minute before it turns off, but with the drum installed and dryer completely assembled, the heating element only heats up for approx 20 seconds and thus I am having a difficult time drying clothes. I can hear a click noise from some kind of switch right before element turns off/on. I think it is a defective switch that mounts right near the heating element but not sure and nor do I know what the name of the switch is. Please Help.

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  • phudson6 Nov 19, 2009

    would that be the one sensing the heat from the heating element, the one right above it? When I removed this little guy and jumped the wires together it seems the element heats even longer.

  • phudson6 Nov 19, 2009

    would that be the one sensing the heat from the heating element, the one right above it? When I removed this little guy and jumped the wires together it seems the element heats even longer.

  • phudson6 Nov 19, 2009

    would that be the one sensing the heat from the heating element, the one right above it? When I removed this little guy and jumped the wires together it seems the element heats even longer.

  • phudson6 Nov 26, 2009

    ok beltronic, as you are the only one helping me with this darn dryer, here goes. I can sucessfully dry clothes with this stupid thermostat safety switch jumpered, hell my darn clothes dry in 30 mins, wow never have dryed that good before. I have ordered this stupid little thermostatic switch, but my question is this, the older dryers never had these darn little devices and the element just got hot and viola dry clothes quick. Any harm in keeping this little guy out of the equation? By the way, my element still turns off at 10 mins before the end of the dry cycle with the safety switch jumperd, so obviously my main (knob/thermostat) works fine. Any ideas? Idf i replace this Safety switch in the next few days when it gets here and the performance well sucks, hell i may just leave it eliminated.

  • Gerry Harvey
    Gerry Harvey May 11, 2010

    Sounds like faulty thermostat / cut out..try new stat, aslo make sure plenty air from exhaust



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Yes think so , what should happen is element heats up controlled by fan blowing cold air across it this then heats to whatever thermostat is set to switch at, which in turn controls heat level..Air is then exausted via hose to waste unless its a condenser drier which then turns the steam back to water / which is collected in a waste condesate drum..hope this is helpful...

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

  • Gerry Harvey
    Gerry Harvey Nov 26, 2009

    Hello again, I do not think its a good idea to modify the drier by jumping the safety cut out,lets face it its there to protect you and your property,I can feel your frustration however Safety is a priority!, Fit a new thermostat check with the supplier that this is the correct part and not upgraded or modified,its in your safest interest I am concerned....Thanks.



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Dryer won't dry clothes in one cycle

Make sure a heating cycle is selected. Air and Fluff cycles do not use heat.

Make sure that both phases of 120 volt power are energized (total of 240 volts between the 2 phases).

Most likely the heating element is damaged, which usually means there is no heat at all. A dryer with 2 heating elements will have some heat, but not have enough, when 1 heating element stops working. A dryer with 1 heating element can partially fail and have partial heat, too.

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Be sure to check for lint inside the filter housing and also vent blockage. 240 volts is going into the dryer. The motor runs on 120 so you might have a voltage problem. Heating element needs 240 volts. here is my video let me know if this helps:

Dec 21, 2012 | Kenmore Dryers

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My Kenmore 400 turns on, tumbles but does not heat up. What could be the problem

I am assuming this is an electric only (not gas) dryer, as I cannot find any tech data on your specific model. This is a general troubleshooting guide for heat issues with electric dryers, going from the most common to least common solutions:

**Standard disclaimer--voltages in a dryer (or any AC connected appliance) are high enough to kill you. If you don't know what you are doing, or have any difficulty understanding what I am saying....STOP and call a professional.

With that being said....

1. Test the power supply feeding the dryer and make sure that both 120 volt legs are getting power in reference to the neutral wire. Check between them (red wire to black wire) and check for 240 volt power. A bad breaker or partially failed 240 volt circuit may still provide power for the motor (which only uses one 120 volt leg) but not the heating element, which uses both 120 volt legs to make 240 volts for the heating element. Be sure to check both the receptacle and the terminals where the cord attaches to the dryer.

2. With the dryer unplugged, and the heating element disconnected, check for continuity between the heating element terminals. You may also be able to visualize the heating element coils if you remove it from the dryer. Most elements are held in place by one small sheet metal type screw, in case you need to remove it.

3. Check for continuity on the thermostat and thermal cutoff switch on the dryer. These parts usually are about 1.5" across and are screwed into the metal housing for the heating element. When the dryer is cool, both of these parts should have continuity. Remember to remove the wires from at least one of the terminals before checking continuity. These parts may look similar. If you have a defective one, google the part number stamped into the side of the part to determine which one is which. They are NOT interchangeable.

4. If all of this checks out ok, you will need to check for power coming from the timer to the heating assembly with the power on. The thermostat, thermal cutoff and heating element are typically wired in series. The two wires coming from the timer area down to the heater assembly should have 240 volts between them when the dryer is powered on and in a heating cycle. Once again BE CAREFUL IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS. IF IN DOUBT, READ THE WARNING ABOVE.

Your dryer may also have a switch to control the heat intensity, independent of the timer. If it does, check that as well.

Good luck, and I hope this helps!

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My GE dryer, Model no. DDE7200SBLWW, does not produce any heat. I cleaned all the lint, and have good airflow. All of the thermostats (4) tested good as well as the thermal fuse. With the dryer running on...

do you have 3 terminals to the heating element,if so check the neutral terminal,if this terminal breaks from heat stress the element can't function,not all have 3 terminals,if only 2 terminals then make absolutely sure theres 240 volts across these terminals,if not it will not heat,if you have some jumper leads of the correct size,bypass all thermostats,cycling switches and the thermal fuse just to make sure they metered out as good,also just to be sure check the terminal block where the power enters the unit for any high resistance or burned connections,if theres a hi resistance it will show 240 volts on a meter,but you won't get enough current thru the connection to properly heat the element,also flip the breaker on and off as these can be spookey at times too

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The controls of electric water heaters are designed so that at no time are both the top and bottom heating elements energized. Nearly all electric water heaters of this capacity in the US & Canada (other places, too) operate on 240 Volts.

When the water in the tank is below the set point of the thermostat (in your case - 120 degrees), the top heating element is expected to be on - (unless there is an issue with the top thermostat or limit switch). The top most control is the "high temperature limit". It is identified by the reset button on it. Make sure this isn't tripped by depressing the button. If it clicks - it was tripped and should start to make hot water at this point. If not tripped, you should check for the presence of 240 Volts between the heating element terminal screws. Do not measure from ground to a terminal screw and believe 120 Volts is "good". To make heat, you need 240 Volts - not 120 Volts measured across the terminals - not to ground. The amount of heat created running at 120 Volts is only 1/4 of what it will do at the correct voltage.

If you don't measure 240 Volts on the top element, check the bottom element in the same manner described for the top element.

If unable to measure 240 volts on any element, either there is a problem with the power source (blown fuse or circuit breaker), high temp limit switch, or thermostat(s).

If 240 Volts is present on either heating element, and water is not warm / hot in 30 minutes or so, a defective heating element is suspect. You can change controls without draining a tank, but replacing elements will require draining the tank first. Do not power the water heater without first filling it.

You can read a very detailed "how to" article about checking water heaters here.

I hope this helps - and good luck!

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either your heating element,cycling heat switch,hi-limit switch,or thermistor are defective also check power input for 240 volts,if one leg 120 volts is missing it won't correctly

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You need to check the thermistor/thermostats...that may be your problem.
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