Question about Craftsman 3 gal. Air Compressor, 1.5 hp, Horizontal k

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R.S.U probe fault on a hydrovane 845 .compressor has been off for 3 months .Just fitted new main motor power on and have this fault

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RSU stands for Rotor Stator Unit.

If you just fitted a new motor DO check the rotation direction is what it is supposed to be.

Posted on Nov 19, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Do you have the output specs for a Hydrovane 975 SQ model?


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KitchenAId refrigerator is making a knocking sound.


When there is a noise it is important to know the source of the noise. In the case of a fridge the fault is usually a poor compressor motor assmebly mounting. Over a time the bushes and the mountings can wear out and result in noise when the compressor vibrates. Also when the motor runs , in many cases it can produce a sympathetic vibration as the grills, the rear fitting or plastic can make noise. finally a fault within the compressor can be related to this specially if you can place a hearing probe to know the emission of noise.

Sep 27, 2011 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

IR Compressor sl.No N37 - 75KW NIRVANA -TEO179V05257 (oil free screw compressor). Machine trips with VSD 8 fault. Hall effect sensor is new one and is connected as per the correct sequence. Are there...


Yes, the control board may be bad . Ihave attached a procedure for checking the hall effect sensors, some of which you will not have the special tool needed to preform all the tests. However it will allow you to check the control board which may be bad causing your problem.

VSD FAULT DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
10 Revision 001 - March, 2002
Appendix 4 - Hall Effect Sensor Checks (Four Part)
1. Isolate the compressor from the main incoming voltage supply. Lock and tag the
isolation switch in the open position.
2. Allow 15 minutes for the VSD to discharge capacitors.
3. Open enclosure doors to expose the VSD.
4. Check with a suitable meter that all voltages have dissipated before beginning work on
the VSD.
5. Remove rear cover of drive motor to permit rotating by hand.
TEST 1
6. Disconnect Hall Effect Cable from P4 on the Control Board, plug type is DB9 Type.
7. Inspect cable pins and matching receptacle connections for damage or bent pins.
Remove cover of plug and inspect solder connection of the wires for damage.
9. Inspect entire length of the cable for damage. If cable and connections are in good condition,
proceed to Test 2.
TEST 2
9. Confirm supply voltage to the Hall Effect Sensor is present using a digital multi-meter.
10. Disconnect terminal strips P1, P2 & P3 from the bottom of Control Board.
11. Trip and switch off MCB2 and MCB5 to prevent the SGN Intellisys from powering up.
12. Re-connect main incoming supply voltage to the unit. Isolation contactor KM1 should remain
de-energized and the VSD should only receive control power. Caution must be taken as the
panel has voltage present.
13. Set digital multi-meter to DC Volts.
14. Connect Black probe of multi-meter to either of the 2 pins of P16.
Note: P16 is located on the Control Board, slightly less than half way down and towards the left side.
P16 is marked and described as 2 small bare pins. P16 is the ground connection for the Control
Board.
15. Locate the small transistor just above Pin 3 on terminal strip P1. The transistor has 3 pins on
the left side. The pins are numbered 1 at the top, 2 in the middle and 3 at the bottom.
16. Connect Red probe of multi-meter to Pin 3. The voltage should be between +11 and +14 Volts
DC.
17. If voltage is not present, replace the Control Board.
VSD FAULT DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
11 Revision 001 - March, 2002
TEST 3
17. Connect special adapter XXXXXXXX between P4 on the Control Board and the Hall
Effect Sensor Cable.
19. Set digital multi-meter to DC Volts.
20. Connect Black probe of multi-meter to either of the 2 pins on P16.
21. Connect Red probe of multi-meter to Red wire of the adapter. Rotate motor by hand and
observe measurement. The meter should read between +10 and +12 Volts DC.
22. Repeat the test with the Black wire of the adapter. The meter should read between +10 and +12
Volts DC.
23. Repeat the test with the Yellow wire of the adapter. The meter should read between +10 and +12
Volts DC.
24. If voltage does not rise to between +10 and +12 Volts DC for any of the 3 sensors, replace the
Hall Effect Sensor Assembly.
TEST 4
25. Set digital multi-meter to Ohms.
25. Connect multi-meter between Purple and Green wires of special adapter XXXXXXXX. The meter
should show a resistance value of approximately 150 Ohms ± 20% (New Hall Effect Sensors)* at
70° F (20° C) ambient temperature.
27. If correct value is not confirmed, replace the Hall Effect Sensor Assembly.
Note: Two temperature ranges (130° C and 150° C) of Hall Effect Sensor have been used. Typically,
the 50/60hp (37/45kW) units use a 130° C sensor and the 75/100hp (55/75kW) units use a 150°C
sensor. All sensors have a small band near the sensor end of the cable.
The 130° C sensor has four digits such as 6622 on the band. The 150° C sensor could have either a
four digit number with a star on each side (*6752*) or a four digit number followed by a star and the
letter E (6752*E) or a four digit number followed by an E (7652E).
Appendix 5 - Megger Main Motor Windings
1

Sep 17, 2011 | Ingersoll Rand Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

Hi , i have a 2001 vw bettle that wont start ,i ve had the car 7 months and got the starter repalaced 3 times now as they telling me thats what the problem is (same garge all 3 times)but still happins 2...


3 starters in 7 months????? sounds like your getting "riped off!"
find a new garge,,,,if the battery is good and spins the starter over well then my gess is they just "cleaned the starter off" and called it a new one?? the main causes for starter faults is,,,bad battery's,,, not charging the battery up,,,,loose battery leads,,,bad engine earths to car body,,, very tight engine's? or holding the key over trying to start a car with a flat battery and the starter is only just grunting the motor over!
this causes a lot of heat in the starter motor,, and it burns out!
if it happens again fit a new starter with more power like a heavy duty one? but go to a new garge to get the work dont,, and if you can,,,
watch them fit it! but do tell them why you wont to see this starter fitted

Aug 08, 2010 | 2001 Volkswagen Beetle

1 Answer

3 yr old refrig has started making a humming sound for approx 10 seconds and stops with a click


HI. First you will need verify where the buzzing is located. If it is near the compressor area, it could be the start up relay. If the buzzing is coming from the actual control board area(in the middle section, on the backside behind a access panel, or the lower left section of the compressor area), this will be the control board(PCB).

I suspect a faulty starter relay. Use the procedures below to confirm failure.


I would recommend to check the relay first, then the compressor last to confirm total failure. If both devices test out ok, this will lead to a failed main power control board.

THE RELAY

The compressor relay starts the compressor. A fault relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. On some units. the relay may not be covered at all.(each model may vary). Beneath the terminal cover(if equipped), you will find the compressor relay, and the overload protector as well. The electrical terminals of the compressor motor are located here also. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor, gently. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing. Test the relay with a ohm(multimeter), for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M"(the labeling may vary on each modle). The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up). With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up). Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M". The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it should be replaced asap.

COMPRESSOR TEST PROCEDURE


The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. Generally the same proximity of the relay. The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. The main testing points will be the actual terminal post that hold the relay, gently pull the relay of the terminal box on the side of the compressor, and use the relay holding probes for testing. Once the relay is removed, Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. Be sure to set your meter to 1X before beginning. Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multimeter displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service. Now test the compressor for ground. With the multimeter still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn. None of the terminals should have continuity; the multimeter should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.

Dec 20, 2009 | Maytag Refrigerators

2 Answers

KENMORE SIDE BY SIDE COMPRESSOR KICKS OFF


HI. i would recommend to check the relay first, then the compressor last to confirm total failure. If both devices test out ok, this will lead to a failed main power control board.

THE RELAY

The compressor relay starts the compressor. A fault relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. On some units. the relay may not be covered at all.(each model may vary). Beneath the terminal cover(if equipped), you will find the compressor relay, and the overload protector as well. The electrical terminals of the compressor motor are located here also. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor, gently. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing. Test the relay with a ohm(multimeter), for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M"(the labeling may vary on each modle). The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up). With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up). Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M". The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it should be replaced asap.

COMPRESSOR TEST PROCEDURE

The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. Generally the same proximity of the relay. The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. The main testing points will be the actual terminal post that hold the relay, gently pull the relay of the terminal box on the side of the compressor, and use the relay holding probes for testing. Once the relay is removed, Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. Be sure to set your meter to 1X before beginning. Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multimeter displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service. Now test the compressor for ground. With the multimeter still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn. None of the terminals should have continuity; the multimeter should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.


NOTE_ If both components test out ok, the culprit will be a faulty main control board.

Dec 03, 2009 | Kenmore 50522 / 50524 Side by Side...

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