Compressor motor drags (Slow to get going under a load)The more pressure in tank,the worse it sounds.

Are you draining water from the air tanks. There should be small taps on the bottom of all air tanks. Locate these and open slowly when system is under pressure. Make sure you close them when finished.

It sounds like the small valve that releases the pressure out of the main pipe that runs between the compressor and tank is not working once the tank is full and the motor automatically cuts off. You know this valve is working by the sound of a short spurt if air being released when the motor cuts off. Releasing this pressure means that the motor is able to restart easily because there is no load. If the valve is not releasing this air, the compressor is trying to start under full load which the motor is not capable of doing, hence the humming and popping of breakers due to a current overload as the motor tries to start. Motor burnout is possible if it keeps recurring.

This small release valve is attached to the Pressure control switch that switches the motor On & Off and usually has a small pipe going to it or is incorporated inside the Pressure Control Switch. If the valve appears to be working then it means that the Non-return valve on the input to the tank is not sealing properly and letting air back into the main pipe causing the compressor to start under load. Check both valves for correct operation and if not working properly, talk to the people you bought it from to have it repaired under warranty seeing that unit is brand new .

There is a check valve between the compressor and tank, and there is also an 'unloader valve' which blows the pressure off the compressor so that it starts under little load. I think your check valve is stuck open and the unloader valve is blowing tank pressure off.. and when the compressor tries to start it's starting against the pressure in the tank.

So check/replace/thaw the check valve and you'll be good to go. It's generally at the tank where the line from the compressor head goes into the tank, it'll be between the two somewhere.

lp

It sounds like the compressor is trying to start under load because there is a tightness in the pump itself or there is high pressure air in the line between the pump and tank There is a small valve that releases the pressure out of the main pipe that runs between the compressor and tank once the tank is full and the motor automatically cuts off. You know this valve is working by the sound of a short spurt if air being released when the motor cuts off. Releasing this pressure means that the motor is able to restart easily because there is no load. If the valve is not releasing this air, the compressor is trying to start under full load which the motor is not capable of doing, hence the slow running, overheating and popping of breakers due to a current overload as the motor tries to run up to normal peed. Motor burnout is possible if it keeps recurring.

This small release valve is attached to the Pressure control switch that switches the motor On & Off and usually has a small pipe going to it or is incorporated inside the Pressure Control Switch. If the valve appears to be working then it means that the Non-return valve on the input to the tank is not sealing properly and letting air back into the main pipe causing the compressor to start under load. Check both valves for correct operation and replace as necessary.

If all the air side checks out OK the check for low oil level and / or binding in the air pump main drive shaft.

It sounds like the small valve that releases the pressure out of the main pipe that runs between the compressor and tank is not working once the tank is full and the motor automatically cuts off. You know this valve is working by the sound of a short spurt if air being released when the motor cuts off. Releasing this pressure means that the motor is able to restart easily because there is no load. If the valve is not releasing this air, the compressor is trying to start under full load which the motor is not capable of doing, hence the humming and popping of breakers due to a current overload as the motor tries to start. Motor burnout is possible if it keeps recurring.
This small release valve is attached to the Pressure control switch that switches the motor On & Off and usually has a small pipe going to it or is incorporated inside the Pressure Control Switch.

It sounds like the small valve that releases the pressure out of the main pipe that runs between the compressor and tank is not working once the tank is full and the motor automatically cuts off. You know this valve is working by the sound of a short spurt if air being released when the motor cuts off. Releasing this pressure means that the motor is able to restart easily because there is no load. If the valve is not releasing this air, the compressor is trying to start under full load which the motor is not capable of doing, hence the humming and popping of breakers due to a current overload as the motor tries to start. Motor burnout is possible if it keeps recurring.

This small release valve is attached to the Pressure control switch that switches the motor On & Off and usually has a small pipe going to it or is incorporated inside the Pressure Control Switch. If the valve appears to be working then it means that the Non-return valve on the input to the tank is not sealing properly and letting air back into the main pipe causing the compressor to start under load. Check both valves for correct operation and replace as necessary.

It sounds like the valve that releases the pressure out of the pipe that runs between the compressor and tank is not working once the tank is full and the motor automatically cuts off. This valve is attached to the Pressure control switch that switches the motor On & Off and usually has a small pipe going to it. You know the valve is working by the sound of a short spurt if air being released when the motor cuts off. If the valve is not releasing this air the compressor is trying to start under full load which the motor is not capable of doing, hence the humming and popping of breakers due to a current overload as the motor tries to start.

bleeder valve is bad or dirty drain air unplug machine pull the back up plate control plate and make it shinny with emmeory cloth then clen it and try again, if it still does the same thing your going to nedd to replace unloader valve.

There is a line running from the pump assembly to the tank. At the tank the compressed air passes a check valve. This valve prevents the air from escaping back along the same line. After the tank reaches max psi the motor shuts off. What is undoubtedly happening or rather not happening with your compressor is the unloader valve is not functioning properly.

The unloader valve is what bleeds off the pressure that remain in the compression chamber after the motor shut off. If the unloader valve fails to bleed the excess psi off then the piston has to work against your minimum psi. or around 80psi.

This is your large load.
The unloader valve is comprised of a mechanical trigger at the switch and a small air line that runs from the switch back to the tank check valve or up at the pump manifold.

Often it is enough to clean the small mechanism and make sure all the small parts are free from corrosion or damage.
However you may need to replace it.
Hope this helps.

needs valves