Our Brivas (ME35)Heating/Cooling unit works fine when we use the heater. However, when we use the cooling, water constantly drains and power keeps tripping. After 24hours when the water has completely drained, the power stops tripping. Now, the unit doesn't work and displays 8 squares with no other error codes. Does anyone know what this problem might be?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: Brivas (ME35)Heating/Cooling unit, error?
Hi there, I know that this unit is made in South Africa and it is well built and designed. The problem sounds like a condensation problem, and instead of the water draining at the condensate line hose, or pipe, it is over flowing into the electrical components causing the unit to trip loosing power .I have not been able to locate a manual to read what the codes for this unit mean, but you need to look at the unit where the water is coming from, the evap. coil where it blows supply air and clean the drain and if it has a foam type filter that can be washed, do this also.The drain must be washed or blew out or you will continue to have this problem, which can also be dangerous as you no that water and electrical products do not mix. If it will not come back on now after the water has drained, it sounds like the water has finally damaged a component. Find out what you can on this code from owners manual if you have one. Sometimes you will find a list of codes on the unit also, that will tell you what so many short or long flashes mean. I would bet the water has shorted out a component.Lets hope not, try and find what this code means and we can go from there.It would be great to be on site to get you up and running,but....no such Luck. It only condesates in the cooling mode inside the house. Please inform me what you find. Sincerely, Shastalaker7
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
As long as the humidifier start/stop is regulated by air flow there is no way to cycle it on/off with another device. If, however you disconnect that capability and, instead wire it to the heat on cool on switch it will only turn on when the stat calls for heating or cooling. You may need to install an intermediate relay off the stat wires to regulate the different(assuming that they are) voltage of the humidifier start/stop.What a fun project, thanks!
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS (from the manual):
The following maintenance procedures must be routinely followed in order to ensure proper, efficient operation of your humidifier. The unit WILL NOT WORK CORRECTLY if it is not cleaned properly.
When the unit is in use, daily and weekly maintenance is recommended. Regular weekly cleaning prevents scale buildup on the heating element and base. It also prevents micro-organisms from growing on the base. This ensures that maximum efficiency will be achieved.
We cannot over-emphasize how essential proper cleaning is to the maintenance and continued use of your unit and to the the avoidance of algae or bacteria build-up.
Allow to cool before maintenance.
1. Before cleaning, set the control to OFF (O) position and unplug the unit from the electrical outlet.
2. Remove the water tank then unlock the misting chamber by rotating the safety lock towards the front of the unit. Lift mist chamber from the unit's base.
3. Empty water and minerals from the base and place in the top rack of the dishwasher. This will remove any sediment and dirt that has accumulated in the base.
NOTE: It is imperative that the base is cleaned properly. The base is dishwasher safe (top rack ONLY) for easy cleaning.
4. Wipe the heating element clean with a soft cloth after it has had a chance to cool.
5. Replace misting chamber and engage safety lock. The Electronic Thermal Control Heating element is lined with a coating that is designed to provide the easiest cleaning and prolong the operating efficiency of the humidifier. DO NOT use any metal or hard objects to clean the Heating Element. Never use detergents, gasoline, kerosene, glass cleaner, furniture polish, paint thinner or other household solvents to clean any part of the humidifier.
Remove Scale: Allow to cool before maintenance.
1. Repeat steps 1-5 in the Daily Maintenance section.
2. Clean the tray by partially filling the base with one 8 oz. cup of undiluted white vinegar. Let solution stand 20 minutes, cleaning all interior surfaces with a soft brush. Dampen a cloth with undiluted white vinegar and wipe out entire base to remove scale.
3. Rinse with clean warm water to remove scale and the white vinegar solution before beginning to disinfect the tank.
4. Wipe the heating element clean with a soft cloth after it has had a chance to cool.
1. Fill tank with 1/2 teaspoon of chlorine bleach and 1/2 gallon of water.
2. Let the solution stand for 20 minutes, swishing every few minutes. Wet all surfaces.
3. Empty the tank after 20 minutes, and rinse well with water until the bleach smell is gone. Dry with a clean cloth of paper towel.
4. Refill the water tank with cool water; replace the housing and water tank. Repeal ALL Operating Instructions.
I'm no expert, but a friend of mine loaned me her humidifier recently and she just put some bleach and water in the tank and cleaned the tank with that. It did leave a smell of bleach in the tank that could be smelled any time it ran, but after a few refillings, it went away, and I figure if it smells there must be a little left, which means it should clean the working parts fairly well too. (while you're running it the first few times) And the medicine tray in the SWM5250 is dishwasher safe, so I would just run that through the dishwasher, but bleach should be fine for that too.
No you probably have scale around the heater thus not heating the water warm eneough. The water trough is located in the bottom of the unit and it gets covered with scale you can sometimes crumble it off with your fingers. Sometimes you have to use a cleaner on them too. Me personally on mine I clean it with a flat blade. I have cleaned mine twice this year as I have hard water
Aprilaire, a manufacturer of indoor air quality products including thermostats, air cleaners and dehumidifiers, also offers a line of whole house humidifiers. Installed in your existing heating and cooling system, humidity is produced by a supplied water source that flows over a water panel before being distributed throughout your air through the heating and cooling system. Issues you may need to troubleshoot with your Aprilaire humidifier include error messages and the unit producing too little or too much humidity.
Things You'll Need:
Replacement water panel
Turn down the control dial by one setting if condensation appears on your windows or walls.
Turn up the control dial by one setting if there is a lack of humidity, often indicated by dry skin or peeling wallpaper or paint.
Turn the control dial to "Test/Reset" if the humidifier does not run. Verify the heating and air conditioning unit blower is operating. If the heating and air conditioning unit is not operating or you are unable to resolve the issue contact a heating contractor.
Contact a heating contractor if you turn the control dial to "Off" and the humidifier continues to run.
Contact your Aprilaire dealer (see Resources) if you notice an error code on the display and the "Call Dealer for Service" light flashes.
Turn the control dial to "Off" and turn off the water supply if the yellow "Change Water Panel" light flashes. Lift the front panel off of the humidifier. Slide out the water panel. Insert a new water panel. Replace the front cover. Turn the control dial to "Test/Reset" until the "Humidifier On" light flashes. If you feel uncomfortable changing the water panel, contact a heating contractor.
Tips & Warnings
Purchase replacement water panels through your Aprilaire dealer or a heating contractor.
Thank you for contacting us regarding the "clunk" sound you are
experiencing with your Aprilaire 550. The noise you have described is called
Water hammer is a pressure surge or wave resulting when a fluid in motion
is forced to stop or change direction suddenly. Water hammer occurs when the
solenoid valve closes at the end of a humidification call.
To prevent the sound of water hammer, we recommend contacting your heating
& cooling contractor to install a "shock arrestor" part number 4280. This
device is installed between the water pipe and the solenoid valve and will
absorb the shock and stop the banging.
Please contact your heating & cooling contractor or our Customer
Service Department if you have further questions.
Customer Service Specialist
Research Products Corporation ww.aprilaire.com
the process this unit uses to evaporate water (boil water) leaves behind any minerals from the water . this builds up on the heating element and requires regular cleaning .. you can soak it in white vinegar to help remove the scale .. here is a URL that gives specific instructions on how to do that ... http://www.clairion.com/usermanuals/DD_SD_eng.pdf
if there is enough buildup, the heating element gets too hot ... it may trip a thermal fuse .. if this happens then its likely that the machine will appear to have no power at all ... the thermal fuse is located inside the machine and is soldered or crimped in .. it requires a person with technical expertise to change that .. the heating elements go bad but not often ..if your unit lights up but simply doesnt give vapor output then it may be overheating inside due to buildup on the heater ... it might take a couple of days to get all that cleaned off the heater ... there are two sensors that detect that the machine is assembled correctly .. if its not then it will refuse to operate ... also one of the sensors could be bad ..
I called the service company that put in my new furnace (FAmily Heating and Cooling in Detroit, very highly recommend these people)
Anyway they sent out a second service tech who determined that I would be better off having the humidifier wired to go on whenever the furnace fan was running instead of using the humidifier signal from the circuit board on the furnace. After he changed the wiring the unit runs fine. It is pretty likely that the circuit board was bad also.
For Model V745A Vicks Warm Mist Humidifier: Weekly Maintenance (Removing Scale)
Turn the switch to off and unplug the corn from the wall.
Remove Water Tank and empty any remaining water from the water tank.
Remove Medicine Cup from the Cooling chamber from the Base. Carefully remove the Cooling Chamber and Removable Water Tray from the Base.
Soak the Removable Water Tray in a solution of white vinegar and water for 20 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and then wipe dry with a soft clean cloth.
Fill the heating chamber with undiluted white vinegar.Let stand for 20 minutes.Dampen soft, clean cloth or sponge with undiluted white vinegar and wipe out Heating chamber to remove scale.DO NOT use soap, detergents or abrasive cleaners.
Rinse the Heating Chamber using clean warm water, being careful not to submerge the base in water.
The Water Tray, medicine Cup, and Cooling Chamber are top shelf dishwasher safe.
I was up all night with this since I just purchased it yesterday and I wanted to be certain that there wasn't some simple alternative to returning the humidifier since the reset light keeps going on immediately after I turn the unit on AND I've already followed all the directions to the T. Believe me - I was ready to return it cause ain't no 38.99 worth me doing all this tinkering and trying to figure out why they couldn't make the unit correctly cause apparently A-LOT of people have this problem. If it wasn't for my three children being so ill including myself getting sicker going out to purchase the humidifier and I was trying to avoid going back out to further compound my illness----I WOULD have just returned it. MAYBE I still will return it. ANYWAY, here's the deal:the water in the tank SHOULD flow into the boiling chamber where of course steam rises from there; however, the WATER VALVE in the CAP to the water tank does not allow any water to flow into the boiling chamber because it is so tight. The reset light goes on as if there was no water in the tank because of course, the heater is on, but no water is getting boiled because the water can't get in. There are a few things you can do. First: the water valve is a little stick and a spring within a piece of rubber that can be slipped out of the cap (this is what I chose to do). Now the water flows easily and even with the unit set to high, there is no problem. It just works. Second: You could remove ONLY the stick and spring from the water valve's rubber piece. This would work if the hole in the rubber piece happens to allow steady water flow (mine wouldn't). Third: you could probably do some cutting til you were satisfied with the results.