Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
First open the filter door and remove the water from the machine and the "garbage".
Second the problem sometimes is the water pressure, you have to control the amount of water.
Kenmore Elite is a sensitive machine level the machine.
IT´S NOT A ELECTRONIC PROBLEM
Regards, Pedro from Portugal..
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The most likely thing to cause the code and the leak is the water pump. If the shaft seal on the pump leaks, the water gets into the drain pump motor and shorts it out. The code is telling you there is a high current/amp draw at one of the motors.
You can see if the pump is leaking by tilting the machine back, removing the screws that hold the bottom to the front edge of the machine and looking at the pump. If the pump is leaking, you will need a new pump and possibly a new motor control board.
Post back if you need further instructions and we will walk through the repair.
Posted on Nov 09, 2007
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts. Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning. It will also make a noise as the plastic prongs hit each other.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
Testimonial: "I now have a place to start. I had not a clue where to begin. Thank you"
If this is occurring mostly on heavier loads your clutch may be slipping. If you take a flathead screwdriver and push down the lid switch so the washer will spin with the lid up, grab the inside of the drum. If you can easily stop the drum its most likely a bad clutch. If you tip the washer back and see oil underneath then its probably your transmission leaking oil onto the the clutch causing it to slip (in which case you need transmission and clutch assy). If you see oil I would probably not bother calling a tech it would be a pretty expensive repair.
IF the problem is with the clutch only it may be worth repairing but to replace the clutch you will have to remove the pump, motor, transmission, and the clutch mounts on top. The other less common possibility could be a bad drive block under the inner tub. hope this helps. _MJ_
Posted on Jan 28, 2010
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