Re: tank pressure 120 regulated pressure 200. how can
If your pressure cut-off switch is faulty, it will keep running. Could be very dangerous. MSC has switches with different ranges. I had this problem once with an 80 gal. compressor. It was running and I cautiously walked over and shut it off. At this point it had 200psi built up. Yes, I was scared but a new regulator fixed it. The old contacts were rusty and wouldn't release. Hope this helps. Terry
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very possibly as the tank is not venting properly. What ever if you cannot fix the flooding ( adjust the float level correctly) there is a fuel pressure regulator that you can buy after market from speed shops that you can fit in the line and the pressure is then regulated to prevent the carby flooding from excessive pressure in the pump and lines.
First, I have never seen an S-10 Blazer that is carbureted and equipped with an in-tank fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator. Are you sure you are not talking about a throttle body injected engine?
Then, even if such a vehicle does exist, it would make sense to me that the pump is either capable of producing the pressure or it is not. If it adjusts to where you want it, it would make sense to me that the pump is doing what it is supposed to do. Adjusting the regulator would not cause the pump to pump more. It would only affect how much of what the pump is pushing gets returned to the tank. On the other hand, a hole in a regulator diaphram that keeps getting larger could easilly cause the symptoms you are describing.
If your compressor is oil-less type, most likely pressure is leaking past piston ring. To verify, remove cover to expose bottom of cylinder (unplug compressor and let out all air). With flashlight, examine the upper-most part of the cylinder (turn motor by hand till piston is at top of stroke). If top of cylinder is scratched, then pressure is leaking past. For many years now, stores are in a race to have more HP and PSI to attract customers. Customer is really the loser because components used to make the units can not handle the higher pressure. Normally small 115v compressors are set to cut out at 125psi and larger two stage units will cut out at 160psi. Small compressor set to 200psi makes for short lived compressor. Could be compared to driving your car at 100mph all day every day. Longest life is attained when unit is being used at about 60 to 75 % of capacity. To allow your compressor to reach cutout pressure and keep working for a while, lower cutout to 120psi (pressure switch may be adjustable). To restore to 200psi, replace cylinder/ ring. If your compressor is oil type, suspect leaking reed valves.
It sounds to me like your regulator is shot. It is the knob you have been turning in the (-) direction. The gauge reading 120 is the regulated pressure and the gauge reading 130 should be the tank pressure. You can find a new regulator from any Ace Hardware store.
Your concern is very well placed, at pressures that high a lot of damage can be caused by a failure. According to the manual for this model air compressor the approximate cut-in pressure is 160 psi and the approximate cut-out pressure is 200 psi. Meaning it should pump up to 'about' 200 psi and shut off and not come on again until it gets down to 'about' 160 psi. They say approximate and I say about because it's not an exact science setting the pressure switch. Spring rates are not always exact, pressure guages are not that precise, etc. When turned on, it should shut off at 200 psi +/- 10 lbs. If it goes more than 10 lbs over that (220psi), I'd recommend you get the pressure switch and or guages checked or replaced.
Hello. W/D here. Check the rating tag on the safety valve that is letting the pressure off of the tank. I'm pretty sure that it is less than the 200 psi that you are seeing. What I believe is that the contacts in the pressure switch are either set too high, or the switch is bad. Check the rating for your switch, it's kick in (on) and kick out (off) pressures. If you have these values, you can set the switch yourself. Pump the pressure up to where you want it to kick out (off) and stop the compressor at that pressure by pulling the plug. Remove the contacts cover and adjust the spring until the contacts part, setting the contacts to the actual pressure. Drain the air down to below the kick in point. Replace the cap over the contacts, and turn the compressor back on. It should kick off at the pressure that you dialed in. If the contacts will not set, or if there is too much carbon on the contacts, or if you note any burned wires or melted terminals, replace the switch. Minor carbon on the points can be removed with an emery board or fine sandpaper, and this should be regarded as a temporary fix. Best regards, --W/D--
I have a Few questions before trying to answer.Does the pressure go up quickly to 200 psi and down to 120 psi or does the pressure build slowly to 200 psi and slowly down to 120 Psi. Does this unit have a dryer built in or in the system. Are the pressures set correctly on the intellisys. Does this unit have modulation. What mode of operation is unit in. Pressure building up fast is an indication of an obstruction in the discharge line. It could be a valve positioned wrong or a dryer froze up. If the pressure builds slowly up and down it sounds like the intellisys settings are incorrect. If the unit has modulation and is operating in modulation it sounds like the cash regulator needs adjusting.
adjust your pressure switch on your compressor .remove the cap and turn the screw clockwise to increase and counterclockwise decrease.turn the screw counterclockwise a bit and release some air till the compressor start pumping.then just before to reach 120 psi turn counterclockwise to stop the compressor at 120.then release some air again till it cuts in again and look at what pressure it will stop.keep going that way till you get your 120 psi.cut in should be around 90 psi(30 psi differential)depending what kind of pump you have (if the pump can handle 150 psi )you can adjust it to cut in at 120 and cut off at 150 and install a pressure regulator adjusted to 115 to 120 and get a nice steady pressure going to your nail gun.(the best way to do it!!!)
I am almost sure what you have is only a single pump and should only rut out 125 psi tops. you should not exceed this with a pump of that type. If it is a 2 stage pump (one large and one small cylinder) they can commonly go to 175 psi. But as always check to see what the maximum pressure your tank was certified and do not ever exceed it.