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Clutch control removal clutch cable lower how to remove. Sporster 2009 883c

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Too much to describe here but if you have no idea BUY A BOOK do you have any idea what kind of mess you can make come on its an 09 you shouldnt even need a cable and if you do not still under warranty? at any rate your obviously computer literate so go on line and get a clymer manual about $25 how much did you pay for the bike????????????

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

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Suzuki Baleno waggon clutch removing instructions


wow, no year stated ! a 12 year run.
1995-2002 (Japan)
1999-2007 (India)

the manual transmission clutch (not A/T TC or A/T internal clutches)
M/T stick clutch.
NO year stated, and not sold in USA (we are USA) hear, but is sold
here as an Esteem.
our car , has 2 engines, the G16 or the J18.
so servicing any clutch on any engine can vary by, engine, type.
but ill post the steps for your car.

alldata.com
or suzuki pit stop plus, both have FSM on Esteems.

out side USA they have these engines.
1.3 L G13B I4
1.5 L G15A I4
1.6 L G16B I4
1.8 L J18A I4
1.8 L BP-ZE I4
1.9 L XUD9 diesel I4
now the steps ,based on our car.

Ill spin the wheel of fortune, 1998
first is obvious, trans mission removal to reach said stick clutch

phase 1:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Drain the transaxle oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Battery cables (remove car battery first or NEG lug)
    • Battery and tray
    • Clutch cable adjusting nut, joint pin from the cable and cable from the bracket
    • All the wiring harness clamps and connectors involved with the transaxle removal, tag if necessary for location to aid during installation
    • Speedometer cable boot, case clip and cable from the case
    • Radiator outlet pipe from the transmission side cover, on Swift models
    • Transaxle retaining bolts
    • Starter
    • Fender apron extension on the left side
    • Bolts connecting the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold and disconnect the joint
  4. On Esteem models, with the engine supported, remove the vehicle center mounting member by removing the 7 nuts and 4 bolts.
    • Gearshift control shaft nut and bolt
    • Control shaft from the gearshift control shaft
    • Extension rod nut and washers
    • Clutch housing lower plate
    • Sway bar
    • Left and right front wheels
    • Left and right ball joints
    • Left and right halfshafts
    • Transaxle stiffener
    • Transmission to engine bolt and nut
    • Engine rear mounting bracket bolts
  5. Install an engine support.
  6. Support the transaxle with a suitable jack.
  7. Remove the left engine mounting bracket and stiffener.
  8. Lower the transaxle with the engine attached. Pull the transaxle straight out toward the left side.
  9. Lower and remove the transaxle.
phase 2: the clutch.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove the transaxle.
  3. Hold the flywheel stationary.
  4. Matchmark the pressure plate and flywheel for installation reference.
  5. Loosen the pressure plate attaching bolts 1 turn at a time (evenly) until the spring pressure is released.
  6. Remove the clutch disc and pressure plate.

does this help.?

Feb 18, 2015 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i replace grips on 2009 electra glide ultra classic


For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

Sep 20, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

A friend of mine has a 2005 harley sporster, 883. He is have a problem with the clutch adjustment. what is the internal speck for proper adjuetment of his clutch


Follow the clutch cable down until you come to the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable. Slide the boot up or down and loosen the lock nut. Turn the cable adjuster inwards to get as much slack as you can get. Then, remove the derby cover on the primary cover. Take the spring and lock nut out. Turn the clutch adjuster screw as far as it will go counterclockwise. Then turn it back 1/4 turn and reinstall the lock nut, spring, and the derby cover. Go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster outwards until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay in the cable. Squeeze the clutch a few times and recheck the freeplay. If it's correct, tighten the lock nut and replace the protective boot.

Good Luck
Steve

May 27, 2011 | Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883...

1 Answer

Primary chain hitting case on clutch housing, cable nearly fully adjusted clutch slips if adjust any more. bad grinding noise from chain hitting case can i adjust clutch any more in housing?


The primary chain adjustment has nothing to do with the clutch. Take the small upper inspection cover off the primary cover and use your finger to check the primary chain tension. It should have 3/8 to 1/2 inch up and down movement in the top run of the chain when the engine is cold. To adjust, loosen the lock nut on the primary chain adjuster on the bottom of the primary case. Turn the screw upward to tighten the chain, downward to loosen. Once set, tighten the locknut.

To adjust the clutch, loosen the clutch cable adjuster as much as you can. Remove the derby cover from the primary cover. Remove the spring and the locknut. Turn the adjuster screw counterclockwise as far as it will go. Turn it back in 1/4 turn and replace the lock nut and the spring. Replace derby cover. Adjust the clutch cable so that you have about a 1/8 inch play at the hand lever.

Good Luck
Steve

Apr 29, 2011 | 2005 Harley Davidson XL 1200 R Sporster...

1 Answer

83 1000 sporster clutch adjustment xlh


Loosen clutch cable adjuster locknut and the front of the outer primary cover and turn the cable adjuster inwards until a large amount of free play at the hand lever on the handlebar is recognized.

Remove the clutch adjuster access plug, Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the screw inwards until it becomes harder to turn (starts to release the clutch) and continue turning 2 more turns to be sure clutch is disengaged.

Adjust all the free play out of the clutch cable by turning the cable adjuster in the front of the outer primary outwards. Do not put any tension on the cable, just adjust all the freeplay out of the cable and tighten locknut on the primary cover.

Now, Back off the adjuster screw at the release mechanism until the clutch is engaged and the screw turns freely. Then turn inwards until it just bumps and then back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Locknut the locknut down and install the access plug. There should be about a 1/16" free play at the hand lever.

good Luck
Steve

Aug 28, 2010 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

I need to remove the cooling fan shroud from my 1995 Lincoln Continental. How is the easiest way to go about this?


Engine Fan REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3.8L Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the radiator upper sight shield.
  3. Disengage the electrical connector, then remove the integrated relay control/constant control relay module assembly located on the radiator support.
  4. Disconnect the fan electrical connector. Fig. 1: Disengage the fan electrical connector 86873115.jpg

  5. If necessary, remove the air bag crash sensor.
  6. Unbolt the fan/shroud assembly from the radiator and remove. Fig. 2: Unbolt the fan assembly from the radiator 86873116.jpg
    Fig. 3: Remove the fan from the engine 86873117.jpg
    Fig. 4: Slide the fan as an assembly up and away from the radiator. Be careful not to dislodge the mounting stud on the left side. 93143p56.jpg

  7. Remove the retainer and the fan from the motor shaft and unbolt the fan motor from the shroud.
  8. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedures. Tighten the fan shroud retaining bolt to 23–33 inch lbs. (2.6–3.7 Nm). Tighten the fan shroud retaining nut to 71–106 inch lbs. (8–12 Nm). Fig. 5: Constant control relay module location — 3.8L engines 86873118.gif
4.6L Engine
  1. Loosen the fan clutch-mounting shaft from the water pump hub.
  2. Loosen the fan shroud from its radiator mounting and remove the lower hose from the shroud.
  3. Lift the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud from the vehicle.
  4. If necessary, remove the fan-to-fan clutch retaining bolts and separate the fan from the fan clutch. CAUTION
    Closely examine the fan for cracks or separation, to avoid the possibility of personal injury or vehicle damage. To install:
  5. Assemble the fan and fan clutch. Tighten the retaining bolts to 15–20 ft. lbs. (20–27 Nm).
  6. Install the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud. Mount the fan clutch shaft to the water pump hub and tighten to 37–46 ft. lbs. (50–62 Nm).
  7. Slip the shroud into the lower mounting clips and install the shroud retaining screws. Fig. 6: Fan and fan clutch assembly — 4.6L engine 84173064.jpg
5.0L Engines
  1. Loosen the fan clutch-to-water pump hub retaining bolts.
  2. If necessary, remove the drive belt from the water pump pulley.
  3. Remove the fan shroud upper retaining screws. Lift the shroud to disengage it from the lower retaining clips.
  4. Remove the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts and remove the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud.
  5. If necessary, remove the fan-to-fan clutch retaining bolts and separate the fan from the fan clutch. CAUTION
    Closely examine the fan for cracks or separation, to avoid the possibility of personal injury or vehicle damage. To install:
  6. Assemble the fan and fan clutch. Tighten the retaining bolts evenly and alternately to 12–18 ft. lbs. (16–24 Nm).
  7. Install the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud.
  8. Install the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts.
  9. Slip the shroud into the lower mounting clips and install the shroud retaining screws.
  10. If removed, install the water pump drive pulley and adjust the belt tension; refer to Section 1.
  11. Tighten the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts evenly and alternately to 15–22 ft. lbs. (20–27 Nm). Recheck the belt tension.
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Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Lincoln Continental

1 Answer

Info on do it tyour self clutch removal on 2001 mustang 3.8


REMOVAL:
  1. Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
  2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
  3. Raise and support vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
  6. Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
  7. Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
  8. Remove transmission.
  9. Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
  10. Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
  11. Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
  12. Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
  13. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
INSTALLATION:
  1. Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
    1. Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
    2. Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
    3. tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
    4. Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
    5. Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
    6. To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.

  2. Install transmission to flywheel housing.
  3. Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
  4. Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Install starter motor.
  6. Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
    1. Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
    2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.

  7. Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable

Aug 08, 2009 | 2001 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

2001 sportster 883 primary cover removal.


Yes you must loosen the adjuster under the boot. Then you have to disconnect the cable from the ball and ramp.

May 22, 2009 | 2004 Harley Davidson XL 1200 R Sporster...

1 Answer

Clutch Adjustment 1200R Sportster 2004


Slide the rubber cover off the adjustment nut on the clutch cable, loosen the lock nut adjust the cable until you have about an 1/8" play in your clutch cable at the lever. To adjust the clutch itself remove the derby cover, then the spring and retainer. Turn the post until snug and then back off a quarter to half turn, reassemble the derby cover.

May 05, 2009 | 2004 Harley Davidson XL 1200 R Sporster...

1 Answer

Can a shade tree mechanic change the clutch in '97 mitsubishi 3000?


Removal (3000GT AWD)
1. Remove air cleaner cover, air hoses and vacuum pipe. Remove air cleaner, intake hose, battery, battery
tray and washer tank.
2. Disconnect transaxle control cables and speedometer cable. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove both inner fender splash shields. Remove clutch tube bracket and disconnect clutch release
cylinder (including clutch damper assembly on FWD models) and wire aside. Support transaxle assembly
with jack and disconnect upper transaxle mount. Remove mount, bracket, plug and stoppers.
4. Remove transaxle assembly upper coupling bolts. Disconnect tie rod ends and lower arm ball joints.
Remove right support member, starter cover (if equipped) and starter.
5. Remove left side bearing bracket mounting bolts and pry left axle shaft from transaxle. Wire left axle
shaft and inner shaft assembly aside. Pry right axle shaft from transaxle and wire aside.
6. Remove front bank side and rear bank side transaxle stays. Support transaxle assembly with a
transmission jack. Remove transaxle assembly lower coupling bolts and lower transaxle from vehicle.
7. Insert a clutch alining tool to prevent pressure plate and clutch disc from falling. Loosen pressure plate
bolts gradually in a crisscross pattern to avoid warping pressure plate flange. Remove pressure plate and
clutch disc.

May 14, 2008 | 1999 Mitsubishi 3000GT

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