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My dryer is not heating up. i see my heating element has 2 prongs one of them not being used but no extra wire hanging loose. what is this?

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Posted on Nov 18, 2009


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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1 Answer

Whirlpool (Old) dryer makes a zapping noise at the outlet. It will run, but there is no heat

Unplug the dryer, IMMEDIATELY.

Get a Pro to check for wiring shorts or heating elements that are, burned loose, touching or other wise going to ground...

What you are describing is a severe fire hazard if not corrected...

Feb 16, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

Change a four prong cord to three prong cord, dryer heats, turns but does not dry, vents have been cleaned

test this steps and fix it. God bless you

1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Read more:

Jul 31, 2013 | Frigidaire FEQ332E Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer does not heat

Find a volt-ohm meter you can use.
Unplug the dryer and test the socket on the wall or on the floor for current. If If you have a 3 pronged socket, the two slanted slots should have 110 volts each, and the "L'' shaped slot is your ground.
If you have a 4 pronged socket, the two straight slots are 110 volts each, and the "L" shaped and the round slots are grounded.
If you do not have 110 volts showing on both slots, you likely have a blown circuit-breaker to reset at your fuse box.

Depending on the year of the dryer, you have the following things to check inside the back of your dryer.
Wiring, for burnt or broken wires, the heating element for a broken wire, and 2,3,4, or 5 thermostats.
Unplug your dryer and remove the back so you can see all the wires and the above parts.
One at a time, remove the wires from each thermostat and see if the thermostst is blown.
You can tell by setting the volt-ohm meter to ohm's resistance, that's the "Infinity" sign.
Check the heating element the same way.
If the thermostat and heating element are good, the needle will go up on the meter. If one is bad, the needle on the meter will remain motionless.
Each of the thermostats and the heating element are removeable, and replaceable.
Be blessed.

Jan 24, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a GE DWSR405EBWW Electric dryer. It stays hot after completeing cycle (coils still energized). I opened the unit and coil doesn't look visually broken or grounded. 3 thermostats, 1 is a 4...

The way to check the element for being grounded is UNPLUG THE DRYER remove the wires to the element and check eact terminal individually to the heater housing if any ohms at all from each terminal to the heater housing the element is grounded.
As far as the t-stats 2 of them should have zero ohms and the one w/4 terminals the two larger outer ones should be zero ohms the two smaller inner ones will have somewhere between 100-1000 ohms what the smaller one is a heater inside of the t-stat so when set to delicate the t-stat heater heats the t-stat so it trips sooner on the low heat setting since it(t-stat) gets hot sooner

Aug 06, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer is 2 years old. Worked fine until we moved to a new house and could not hook it up. 1 year later I finally had the electric problem fixed and hooked the dryer up No Heat. Dryer turns on but NO Heat.

is the outlet 3 or 4 prongs?. voltage check the outlet for propper voltage. check connection at dryer power cord. 2 of the wires power the motor circuitry(120vac) the other 2 the heating element. you may have a loose connection in outlet,switch wires or bad-half trip breaker. if not,,,, there's a dryer problem, call us again with update please. good luck to you.

Feb 07, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Hi, I have a probLem! No doubt you hear that frequently!! First, you need to know I'm 60, and not a mechanical or electrical bone in my body. I found this site as I was looking for a heating element for...

The two red wires on the dryer probably connect to the short red/wht wire at the end with the extra connector. The other end of the red/wht wire would then connect to the blk/wht wire with small brass connector. This arrangement should place the thermal cutout in series with the high limit (ie, one after the other). Suggest you post pictures if this doesn't sound right.

Feb 27, 2010 | Whirlpool LER8648P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

80 series will not heat up. Black red, green and white wires run from the power cord and the white wire is not connected to anything, could this be my problem?

Not likely ... if the "pig tail" has 3 prongs that plug into the 220 then the extra wire is for the newer 4 prong standard that the industry has gone to. If the dryer is getting power at all this is not the issue.

take the back off after disconnecting your power course ( of course) and check your heating element... see if its clogged up. clean it all out, clear any loose debris and set it aside securely so that it wont accidentally move or shock you or cause a fire then turn it so you can see the exposed element.

Plug it back in and run the dryer.... if the element works then perhaps it was a dirty sensor or something ( there are a couple of sensors you will see that are installed in the side wall of the heating element, there is also a thermostat). If the element fails to heat, unplug the dryer from the power source and check the wires going into the element and its sensors, thermostat... if any of them look burnt or corroded near the female coupler ( wire will look black and toasty around the outside insulation closest to the connector on the sensor or w/e). Buy a new coupler and some heavy grade electrical tape and some wire strippers. YOU HAVE TO BUY HEAVY GAUGE FEMALE COUPLERS AND NOT THE THIS CAR STEREO TYPE AND YOU MUST USE HIGH GRADE ELECTRICAL TAPE CERTIFIED FOR 220!!... unplug the wire and remove the old coupler with wire cutters and strip back the insulation and inch or so to the bare wire and inspect the copper for any corrosion. once you find a good section twist it a bit and place it in the neck of the new coupler then use your stripping tool' front teeth to crimp the coupler onto the bare wire. make sure you have enough slack in the wire to connect it back to the sensor because they dont give you that much wire to play with and I would hate for you to have to replace the whole wire if you didn't have to. Next, liberally apply the electrical tape starting at the neck of the coupler and working your way down the length of the bare wire. You only need to use as much tape make it as thick as the rubber/plastic wire insulation that is already on the wire. Make sure you put tension on the tape as you apply it to ensure god coverage and adhesion.

Reconnect the wire(s) and make sure the element is secure and no lose debris is anywhere near any moving parts or electrical wires or exposed heating coils, then plug the pug tail bag into the 220 and start the dryer... if the element still does not work after the repair you should use a voltage tester on the sensors, thermostats and the element it self... then sensors are fairly reasonable and common sense you have a Kenmore but the elements vary greatly... a new heating element can cost $14 to $45+ dollars U.S.

Dont feel bad after doing the wire repair if it doesn't work because its worth your time. If the wire repair DOES work you are only out about 6 bucks like I said. But you just have to trouble shoot these things...

If you plan on keeping the dryer I would also suggest going ahead and replacing the belt tension pulley found under the dryer tub usually affixed to either the side or front panel or the dryer... it only costs about 7 to 15 dollars but if you have any age at all on that dryer those bearings in the pulley usually and commonly go bad making a high pitched metal sound as the dryer turns... may as well replace it and the belt while you are in there. 2 and a half hours of work if its your first time doing all of this work combines... just take your time and download a manual and print it out if you need to.

repair guys make a good living fixing very simple stuff lol... but its a pain.

I am not a professional, just a family man with limited financial resources and lots of trial and error... I have saved lots of money spending a Saturday or Sunday taking a crash course in appliance repair lol.

Nov 14, 2009 | Kenmore 65924 Electric Dryer

2 Answers


Sounds like your heating element is burned out (acually burned threw) when you moved it if the element was weak it may have broke in two along the coil wires.
Happens alot.

Feb 17, 2009 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Roper dryer will not heat after replacing element

did you ck the thermal fuse located at top of element housing it may be blown..also if you have only 1 wire to element other leg of element should be attached to lower thermostat by a wire or short metal connector

Nov 15, 2008 | Dryers

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