Question about Heating & Cooling
Hi, It sounds to me like what you are describing is, that when it is 6 to 8 or so degree difference then the stat says, unit operates as it is supposed to but then before it satisfies the t-stat, it shuts the compressor down long enough to start cooling home back down, and then it will begin this short cycling of compressor until it reaches room temp. Backing up, you say the fan continues to run cooling the home down as the compressor is off and then starts the short cycling, and blower never shuts off, correct? OK, With the years I have spent repairing heat pumps, even though the compressor is new and still good, and I am sure the T-stat is not at fault her, but you say the Control or defrost board, (same board) Is at fault again! The symptoms you have described to me point to the board. I have seen them go bad in only a couple of days. If you would like you can pick up a new heat-pump stat and replace it to see what happens, and take it back if the problem persists, but I am sure since the fan runs as you say with the short cycling of compressor, board is at fault again. Maybe, just maybe they will give you a discount or a warranty of some kind. I wish you the best of Luck, and keep me informed on this, Sincerely,
Posted on Nov 21, 2009
First of all, check the fan setting on the thermostat. Make sure it's set on Auto rather than On. If it's set to the Auto position, you will either have a bad fan control, fan relay or the green wire is touching the red wire somewhere. The most common places this happens is at the condenser outside and inside the thermostat. I have found that sometimes when trimming grass around the condenser, a weed trimmer will hit the thermostat wire and strip the insulation off causing the wires to cross. Also inside the thermostat, the tech will sometimes leave a tail on the wires and they end up touching inside the thermostat. If they are not crossed, you have either a bad fan control or fan relay. This sounds like it's also making your unit short cycle which will end up costing you a large power bill. If you have a meter and would like me to try and walk you though checking the problem, respond back and I'll do my best although it's very hard to do this in this form. It would be easyer to try this by using the live help offered by this site. Good luck.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
Replace the circiut board or the blower relay. It has probably a board.Turn the fan to the off position on the thermostat. You colud have a ilimit switch or a relay on the control board if it has one.
blower auto shutting off and on is dependent to thermostat setting,if the thermostat acquired the temperature set it will shut of your blower,checking thermostat performance switch off unit, set this to a lower setting 1 or 0 switch on this should not runof course,if you set up this to 200 this will run until temperature reached to 200 it will stop.when you set up to 1 or 0 and the blower run thermostat is defective.
fan blower relay, if the 3 contactor is short or permanently engage while themostat reached acquired temperature your blower will still running,defenitely relay is defective.relay is dependent to thermostat switching,it supply holding coil terminal is to lock the 3 contactor to supply source to your blower.
so two common option while your blower run continously
1. shut off breaker, disconnect thermostat on two leads,its like a switch.then switch on breaker and run unit.
observe if run, your relay is defective,it was shorted on 3 contactor.
thermostat is the key to run your blower.
2. if the blower not run when you switchn onunit,then switch off again and try to short or connect the two lead using alligator clip on both side,or have it clip the terminals,then switch on again if the blower run,your themostat is defective,the high volatile of filler bulb was leak it always switch on,no play at all to off and on.
However the above will guide you and help you,if you understant flow of current in circuit.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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