You may have a short some where in the fridge. If you have a multimeter, I would suggest metering the power leads to the compressor. The compressor may be bad, if you find no shorts in the metering of the power leads.
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the concept for a DRYER is the same for a washer or fridge in some instances
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
If it's popping the reset button on a GFCI outlet, I would recommend rewiring the outlet with no GFCI. Your compressor has a small leak to ground. The cost to replace the compressor is $500+. It should work fine with no GFCI. A good test is to plug it into an extension cord that is plugged into a regular outlet.
First question I would have is if the outlet is a dedicated line with nothing else on it. Also, does the GFCI in question have a high enough amperage rating for the refridgerator. Next, make sure the circuit breaker is not also a GFCI circuit breaker. You cannot have a redundant GFCI in the same circuit, one or the other. It can be very tricky to put an appliance like that on a GFCI circuit due to its compressor motor. Motors have a large amperage draw on them when they start so, if your fridge runs at around 10 amps, it can take three times as much to start (30 amps) which would trip a 20 amp GFCI.
Yes ,, if the fridge outlet is behind the fridge and therefore not accessible for use by counter top appliances .. then yes change it to a regular outlet.
The cause is probably the compressor, getting a bit noisy..electrical noise I mean.
Refrigerators are not designed to run on a GFCI. Try a heavy duty extension cord to the fridge from a outlet that is not GFCI protected. If it still trips you probably have a short circuit in the compressor.